WEAVING 

PART II 




AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 

AT 

ARMOUR INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY 
CHICAGO ILLINOIS 



U. S. A. 



WEAVING 

PART II 



INSTRUCTION PAPER 



PREPARED BY 

H. Wir,i,iAM Nei,son 

City and Guilds of 1,ondon Institute 

Lancashire and' Cheshire Institute 

Head of Department of Weaving, Lowell Textile School 



1905 
AMERICAN SCHOOI. OF C O R RIJ S POND ENC E 

AT 
ARMOUR INSTITUTE OF TECHNOEOGY 



CHICAGO 



U- S. A. ILLINOIS 






LiBRASY of OONGf{ESs| 
fwo Copies rteceiveii 

APR .«0 1905 

aopyri»£iit tnuy 

CLASS i/) AXC. Noi 



Copyright 1905 by 
American Schooi, of Correspondence 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, L/ondon 
All Rig-hts Reserved 



WEAVING 

PART II. 



THE FILLING STOP MOTION. 

The fill i)i(/ stop motion is one of the most sensitive minor parts 
of a loom and its adjnstment reqnires skill and tlionglit if tlie best 
resnlts are to be obtained. There are two distinct forms of lilling 
stop motions both of which serve the same purpose, «'. e., cause the 
loom to stop if the filling breaks or runs out. ( )f these the alter- 
nate stop motion, which is used most commonly on cotton looms, 
will be described first. It is attached to the breast beam, on the 
end nearest the driving pulley, at such a point as to cause the 
fork to pass directly in front of the shuttle-box entrance as the lay 
swings forward, and is actuated only when the lay is swinguig back 
from the front center just as the shuttle is about to be picked from 
that side. This action takes place of course only on alternate picks 
hence the derivation of the name. 

The motion in detail, as shown in Fig. 102, consists of the fol- 
lowing pieces. An elbow lever composed of two sections, the 
hammer or upper section, C, and the lower section, B, which are bolted 
together and hung on the stud at C. A cam, D, which is fixed 
on the pick cam shaft to actuate the lever. A grate, F, which is 
inserted m the lay near the entrance of the shuttle-box. A fork, 
E, provided with a hook at one end and usually three prongs at the 
other. The fork is mounted on the fork-slide, G, which slides in 
the slide-plate attached to the breast beam, often bemg recessed as 
shown to admit the end of the shipper-lever. 

The action of the motion is as follows : As the cam revolves it 
raises the lower end of the elbow lever, thus throwing back the 
hammer, and as the lay swings forward at the same time, the fork 
enters the grate as shown at K, allowing the hook of the fork to 
rest behind the hammer Avhich catches as it moves back, drawing 
the slide with it, and through the shipper lever releasing the shipper 



152 



WEAVING 



handle, thus stopping the loom. When there is filling across the 
face of the grate the fork is prevented from passing through the 
grate, being tipped up mstead as shown at L, thus lifting the hook 
out of the way of the hammer and preventing any action from tak- 
mg place. Consequently as long as the filling is across the grate 
the loom contmues to run. There are two distinct forms in which 
the prongs of the fork may be bent as shown at M and N. Some- 
times an mtermediate form is adopted and in extreme cases the 
prongs extend further than at N ; but for ordinary work this would 
be defective fixing. The form shown at M is by far the best for 




Fig. 102. Filling Stop Motion. 



any kind of work. In setting the stop motion several facts must 
be considered as governing its most efficient action. As strain 
tends to weaken the filling the fork should be set so as not to 
cause excessive strain. The less movement required for the fork, 
the better. Correct tmimg is absolutely essential. . 

The prongs of the fork should be long enough to reach below 



WEAVING 153 



the level of the race-plate, which is grooved at the required point. 
If they are not sufficiently long there is a tendency for the filling 
to slip under them, thus allowing the hook to catch and the loom 
to be stopped. Also as the lay swings back the filling wliich was 
pressed partially through the grate, becomes slack and often curls 
around the prongs if they are too short. This sometimes causes 
the loom to stop, but more often the loop so made, weaving down, 
holds the fork tipped up and prevents it from stopping when it 
should, until it is broken away. Occasionally this loop is woven 
into the cloth making a thick place which, especially on fine goods, 
is a defect. With the fork shaped as at M, tlie amount of strain 
to which the filling is subjected, and the amount of movement re- 
quired, are both reduced to a minunum. When the prongs are ver- 
tical or nearly so it is not necessary to have them pass through the 
grate to the same extent as required with a fork shaped as at N, 
to produce the same amount of movement. 

A glance only is necessary to see that there is less tendency for 
the filling to slide up on a fork shaped like M than on a fork 
shaped like N, and it is Avhen the filling presses against the prongs 
nearest the ends that it is subjected to the least strain. It is especi- 
ally on a multiple box loom that the effect of straining the yarn 
becomes most apparent, because on such a loom the eyelet would 
be in the back end of the shuttle-box as the fork enters the g-rate, 
and m the majority of cases the filling would be held tightly between 
the shuttle and the binder so that no let-off is possible from the 
bobbin. This being so it may readily be seen that the greater the 
distance the fork passes through the grate, the more the filling will be 
strained, often to the point of breaking out. Excessive movement 
of the fork is always to be avoided, because under such conditions 
it often rebounds just in time to catch and stop the loom. When 
settmg the motion the prongs should project through the grate not 
more than one-quarter of an inch, and as some forks are made 
with short prongs and a long hook, care must be used to make 
sure that the grate does not come in contact with the slide. If the 
grate should strike the slide when the lay swmgs forward, the slide 
will be pushed back and the loom stopped without any extra jar to 
which the loom may be subjected. 

To time the stop motion it is common practice to push the slide 



IM 



WEAVING 



as far forward as it will go and set the fork and cam to this posi- 
tion. But occasionally the slide slips back from its position when 
the pressure is removed, reducing the distance which the fork 
projects through the grate with the result that occasionally the loom 
will stop, and the fixer having set the motion will naturally think 
something else the cause of the trouble. With the fork fixed m 
its correct position, swing forward the lay, and as it is just leaving 
the front center set the cam to move the elbow lever with the catch 
of the lever just passing the fork. If at this time the hook of the 
fork barely clears the hammer, the timmg will almost invariably 
be correct when the loom is runninor. 

There are different shapes of cams used, but an eccentric cam 
gives the best results. By its use the lever acquires even motion 
where other shapes cause sudden and uneven motion. 



n 



Fig. 103. Protection Device, 
Froff Motion. 




THE PROTECTION DEVICE. 



The protection device is to protect the warp from being broken 
out should the loom stop or bang off with the shuttle in the shed. 
There are two distinct forms of protection devices ; first the frog 
motion, which is almost invariably used in connection with a back 
binder ; second the device which has the dagger in the center of 
the lay and is used in connection with a front binder, 

Referrmg to Fig. 103, which represents the frog motion, the 
explanation is as follows. A is the frog fitted on the side of the 
loom ; B, the dagger attached to a rod suspended under the lay 



WEAVING 1^^ 



sole; C, the protection finger Avliich is fixed on the outer end of 
the dagger rod with its upper end in contact with the bmder ; U, 
the steel receiver placed loosely in the frog to receive the blow 
from the dagger point; E, knock-off finger which pushes off the 
shipper handle, F, when the dagger strikes the receiver m the frog : 
G a brake which is drawn in contact with the tight pu ley H, 
when the frog is forced forward. This checks the speed of the 
loom, and also throws on the pulley some of the jar caused by the 
loom banging off. Incorrect setting of the brake often causes 
the loom to become broken and the receiver to wear out before it 
should The latter is replaceable when worn. Pieces, A, B, O, 
and D are fitted to both sides of the loom, but the complete device 
Is only used on the driving side. At the opposite end, the device 
which is there termed a blind frog, is necessary to prevent the lay 
swmging forward at that side as would happen if only one 

receiver were used. ■ a ^ 

With this form of protection device more power is required to 
drive the shuttle than when front binders are used, because stronger 
springs are mvariably used on the dagger-rod, and there is also 
more weight pressing against the bmders due to the use of two 

The daggers vary in length, but for this style device on a 
narrow loom the average length would be about 3|". Different 
systems of setting are employed to the same end. One system is to 
draw the lay forward with the shuttle in the shed until the reed is 
pressing the shuttle lightly against the warp, at which time the 
dasser should come in contact with the receiver, and the brake bmd 
on the pulley. Another method is to place the shuttle on the race- 
plate against the reed, and draw the lay forward until the front side 
of the shuttle is about |" from where the fell of the cloth will be. 
This may be readily determined from the inside edge of the temple 
Settincr by this method will cover nearly every case regardless ot 
the inake of loom. Where an extra large shuttle is used, or 
very heavy fabrics are being woven, either protect sooner, or have 
the dagger a trifle longer. i ,,i • .^,i 

On the ordinary Northrop Loom, an extra large shuttle is used, 
this being necessary to give the requisite strength when forcmgthe 
bobbin through, and a |" space between the shuttle and the fell 



156 WEAVING 



of the cloth has been found to be amply sufficient. Smashes occur 
contmually if the amount of space allowed is insufficient, even 
though the motion acts, and the cloth produced has defects in the 
form of thick places caused by the filling being beaten in too closely 
at the pomt where the shuttle comes to rest. The diagram at Fig. 
104 shows the various positions. At A the position in weavmg; 
B, when the loom has banged off and the shuttle is pressed forward 
until the protection acts ; C, when the space allowed is insufficient 
and the yarn is tightened excessively. A third method of setting 
the device is to have the dagger in contact with the receiver when 
the crank shaft is slightly forward of the bottom center. 

The other form of protection device is repre- 
sented at Fig. 105. This form of device is in 
more general use than the one previously described 
both for single and multiple box looms, and is 
undoubtedly the better of the two. It is more 
easily fixed, does not require so much spring on 
protection rod, has fewer pieces, requires less 
power to drive the shuttle, and is used in connec- 
tion with the front binder which is decidedly the 
most preferable form of binder. As illustrated, 
the various pieces are : A, the shuttle boxes ; B, the protection 
finger ; C, the dagger ; D, the receiver ; E, the protection spring ; 
and F, the protection rod. The rod is held in close contact with 
the lower front of the lay sole, and the fingers, B, B, press 
against the binder or binder frame. Some makes of looms have only 
a binder forming the front of the box, while others have a wood front 
with an adjustable binder attached to the bmder frame and fitted 
into an oblong slot cut in the wood front. Daggers vary m length 
for this form of device also, being from 4" to 4|" long on a nar- 
row loom, and correspondingly longer for broader looms because of 
the longer sweep of the lay. They are also made longer for narrow 
looms intended for very heavy weaving. 

This form of motion is set similarly to the frog motion. To 
set the fingers, draw the lay forward uijtil the dagger is well mto 
the hollow of the receiver and fix one finger. Then msert a 
piece of cardboard about ■^^" thick between the fuiger and the 
bmder, and fix the other fuiger in contact with the other binder. 




WEAVING 



157 



When the second finger is being driven on, the rod has a tendency 
to spring a httle and it is to allow for this that the paper is inserted. 
Have the dagger pomt strike squarely in the receiver for if it 
strikes either nearer the top or bottom the point of the dagger and 
the edges of tlie receiver soon wear out, and the first intimation of 
this is a smash in the warp, especially if the dagger has been strik- 
mg against -the bottom of the receiver. When the dagger is set to 
strike high up on the receiver it requires a greater amount of 
movement to keep it clear from the receiver when the loom is run- 
ning. This means that the binder must be set closer into the box, 
causing increased pressure on the shuttle and a consequent increase 
of power necessary to drive the shuttle hito the box. Under these 
conditions the loom will be constantly banging off because the 
slightest change in speed will prevent the shuttle from entering 
the box fully, and consequently the dagger fails to clear the receiver. 
There is also more wear which is due to the additional amount of 
movement required. 




Fiff. 105. Protection Device. 



Tension on the spring should be as light as possible, only to 
the extent of keeping the fuiger in contact with the binder and 
applying sufficient pressure to the shuttle. The only real objec- 
tion to this style of protection device is that all the jar caused by 
the loom bangmg off is apphed at one point, and occasionally a 
breast beam is sprung or broken by reason of this. Neither of 
these faults will occur, however, if the breast beam is of well 
seasoned wood and free from dry rot. Incorrect setting of the 
brake is sometimes responsible for the trouble. The brake should 
be applied when the dagger strikes the receiver, for this tends to 
stops the momentum of the loom. 



158 



WEAVING 



KNOWLES GINGHAM BOX LOOMS. 

The term hox loom is applied to a loom which is fitted with two 
or more boxes at one or both ends of the lay. A loom equipped 
with several boxes at one end of the lay and only one at 
the other, is always fitted with an alternate picking motion and only 




FiSf. 106. Knowles Ginfiham Box Loom. 



an even number of picks of any color may be woven into the cloth, 
because the shuttle having been picked across from the multiple 
box to the single box, must be returned to the multiple box before 
any change may be made. This type of loom, which is designated 
as a 2 by 1, 4 by 1, or 6 by 1 box loom, will be explained first. 



WEAVING 159 



The purpose of such looms is to produce cloth into which several 
different colors of filling are woven but only even numbers of picks 
of any one color may be used. The more boxes there are, the greater 
variety of patterns may be woven, but it is not advisable, however, 
to purchase looms having four boxes merely on the prospect of 
using four at some future time when only two are required for 
present needs. Unless the larger number of boxes are required for 
use in the immediate future, it is better to obtain only those 
necessary at the time. This may be explained by the fact tliat the 
shuttles are thrown differently from new boxes than from boxes 
which have been used. It is also difficult to obtain the right 
amount of leverage, and as all the shuttles from the multiple box 
are picked into the single box there is endless trouble from this 
source. 

All the shuttles used for these looms must be as nearly equal in 
size and weight as possible, and should as well be in good proportion 
to the boxes. If they are too small the top edge of the back of the 
shuttle receives no support from the back of the box, and has a 
tendency to work in the slot or picker-race in the back of the boxes, 
while if too large, broken bobbins will often result and the shuttle 
require more power to drive it into the box, especially in the case 
of the temple being set a little high off' the race-plate. There should 
be a space of not less than three-sixteenths of an inch in the box 
both above and in front of the shuttle. Two very good reasons 
may be given for allowing this space. First, the temple almost in- 
variably raises the yarn from the race-plate and even when very 
slight it is sufficient to raise the shuttle so that it has a tendency 
to strike the top of the box, unless space is allowed, thus retarding 
the shuttle, chipping the wood, and breaking bobbins and yam. 
Second, the shuttle travelling across the lay describes an arc, witli 
the tendency for the shuttle to strike the front of the box, and un- 
less space is allowed here equally bad results will follow. 

In judging the value of a box motion two considerations ought 
to be taken into account as f(jllows: Is the motion adapted to the' 
speed of the loom to which it is to be fitted, and are the parts 
readily changed and easily adjusted when fittmg is required ? Ac- 
cording to the practical answers to the above the returns are good 
or bad. A box motion may appear to be simple and yet not be 



160 WEAVING 



suitable for the work it is expected to perform, while on the other 
hand a complex mechanism is not usually a very durable one. A 
solid compact motion is to be desired, especially for high speed 
looms, because a motion, the main working parts of which depend 
upon small studs for support, will not run long without repairing, 
even though good results could be obtained with slightly stronger 
parts on a slower running loom. 

Fitting A New Set. Having selected the boxes, the next pro- 
cedure is to fit them to the loom and a few moments examination 
of them may save hours of labor as well as supplies. A set of 
boxes may be fitted to a loom in such a way that the shuttles will 
run a month without any appreciable effect, or they may become 
spoiled in an hour, according to the precision of fitting. Of course 
boxes must be fitted to a high speed loom with the greatest possi- 
ble care, or the back of the shuttles will soon become worn and 
splintered. Clean the boxes thoroughly, wiping away all grease 
from the inside of the boxes, particularly as its presence Avould 
cause false running of the shuttles. Smooth off all sharp edges 
such as are found on the inside edge of the back slot and the edges 
of the groove in the binder. Set all the binders so that each 
shuttle will be gripped at similar points ; binding the shuttle at or 
slightly behind the center for reasons referred to in a previous 
chapter on Binders. Do not allow all of the flat end of the binder 
to come in contact with the box, or the filling will become cut, 
because as the shuttle leaves the box the filling curls and usually 
drops in between the binder and the front of the box, and when the 
bmcler comes in contact with the front of the box the filling is cut, 
while if the binder touched only at the extreme end there is no 
danger of this happening. After the binders are bent to fit the 
shuttle, the extreme end of the binder should not be in contact 
with the outside pin, but wherever possible a space of at least one- 
quarter of an inch should be allowed for change. With a new set 
of boxes the binders must be tighter than is necessary with an old 
set, due to a certain amount of grease which it is unpossible to 
remove, and the shuttles as well are inclined to be oily. 

Set the lifting rod thorouglily by means of the lock-nut under- 
neath the boxes. Carelessness in regard to this is a source of 
trouble as the boxes become loose, and during the picking of the 



WEAVING 



161 



shuttle the front of the box descends, causmg the shuttle to strike 
the race-plates with harmful effect. A loose lock-nut is also a 
common cause of the boxes binding in the slides. 

The above directions apply to the fitting and fixing of boxes 
regardless of the motion employed to actuate them. Before de- 
scribing the setting of the boxes, due consideration must be given 
the box motion. IChe box motion used on the two-harness gingham 
loom consists of two parts, the Upper and the Lower, the latter of 
which will be explained first because it is connected directly to the 
boxes. 




Fig. 107. Knowles Gingham Box Loom. 



KNOWLES BOX LOOM LOWER nOTION. 

This box motion derives its movement from elliptical gears, 
and consequently has a fast and slow motion. The gears are timed 
to impart their greatest speed during the change from one box to 
another, which regulates the color of fiUmg to enter the cloth. 
While it is not only advisable but necessary to have the boxes 
changed in time, it is not always desirable to have too rapid action, 



162 



WEAVING 



for the movement should be as even as possible. A jerky action 
in changmg boxes is constantly causing trouble. A diagram of 
the gearmg of this motion is presented at Fig. 108. Elliptic gear 




fi 






1, is fixed on the pickmg cam shaft and geared into 2, each having 
27 teeth. Compounded with 2 is a 22-tooth gear and a segment 
gear 3, which has 15 teeth. The 22-tooth gear is the first 
of a tram of four gears of the same number of teeth, which transmit 



WEAVING 163 



motion to the second segment gear 4, also of 15 teeth. These seg- 
ment gears which are placed one above and one beneath the vibrator 
gears C, have one tooth omitted from one side and three from the 
other, motion being imparted always through the smallest space, 
the first two teeth of the segment entering that space. The larger 
space is to allow the segments to revolve without acting upon the 
vibrator gear.- 

The vibrator gears, of which there are two, are mounted on 
studs fixed to the vibrator leve s D, and these in turn are sup- 
ported at one end by a stud attached to the loom side, the other end 
being connected by means of the connecting rods E, to the small 
levers which press on the filling cham bars. A vibrator or connects 
ing bar, F, is fixed by means of a stud to each vibrator gear, both 
vibrators also being attached to the box levers, which impart the 
rise and fall to the boxes. One of these levers is a compound 
lever, G, which will raise or lower two boxes, and the other is a 
smgle lever, H, which will raise or lower one box. The pieces, K, 
and, K', act as one solid lever during the ordinary working of the 
loom, and the two box levers, G and H are attached to K and K' 
at po'mts M and N respectively. The box liftmg rod is attached 
to the outer end of K', bemg adjusted by means of the adjustmg 
nuts at P. Leverage is mcreased or diminished at O, increased by 
lowering the connection and diminished by raising tlie connection. 
A cam, T, which is compounded with segment gear, 3, 
actuates the lock-knife, R. This knife engages with the ends of 
the vibrator levers, keepmg them in position during the tune the 
segment gears revolve. If they were not so held they would tend 
to spring out of contact with the shells, forcing the lock-knife out 
of connection with the vibrator levers during the changmg of the 
box chain, and allowing the bars to be raised or lowered. To thne 
the lock-knife, set the finger, S, on the center of the highest part 
of. the cam, when the crank shaft is between the bottom and front 
centers, mclined to the front center, with the shuttle m the single 

box. 

A protection device is provided to protect the mechanism 
from becoming broken at any pomt, if anything should happen to 
prevent the boxes from working. Sometimes a shuttle does not 
fully enter the box, leaving part of it extending on the race- 



164 WEAVING 



plate, and if some device were not provided to free the boxes, 
either the shuttle or the boxes would be broken. The manner 
of joining together the levers, K, and, K', provides this protection. 
Two short studs with tapered ends are set into the hub of lever, 
K', and fit into corresponding holes in the hub of lever, K, the two 
levers being held in close contact by means of a spiral sprmg, 
which is held compressed between the head of the bolt and the 
lever. When the boxes are prevented from working, the studs in 
lever, K', twist out of the holes in lever, K, thus breaking the 
connection, which will be re-established on the removal of the 
obstruction. A spring at V m the box of lever, V, assists in 
drawing the levers back into place. 

To Set the Boxes. Place the boxes in the slides and attach 
the lifting rod to the swivel, P. Bend the lifting rod very slightly 
away from the loom at a point near its center, in order to elevate 
the back end of the boxes and thus guide the shuttle higher on the 
picker. Loosen the bottom of the lifting rod and adjust the slides 
so that the boxes may be raised freely, but not loosely, as the latter 
is detrimental to good work. Set the boxes by means of the ad- 
justing nuts at P, so that the bottom of the top box at the entrance 
is level with the race-plate. Then raise the second box by means 
of the box motion, and level the bottom with the race-plate by 
changing the connection of the single lever at O ; raising the con- 
nection to lower the box or lowering the connection to raise the 
box. Next raise and adjust the third box similarly to the second. 
The fourth box should be all right after the former adjustments, 
and if not, it is an indication that the boxes are not true. This is 
occasionally the case, caused by the boxes becoming bent before 
leaving the machine shop. It must be remembered in connection 
with this motion, that changing the adjusting nuts at P Avill alter 
all the boxes, and the adjustment of the second and third boxes 
must be effected by altering the connections of the single and com- 
pound levers at O, therefore the top box must be adjusted first and 
the others in order. 

Always bend the lifting rod at the center, because if the bend 
is higher it will rub against the frame work of the boxes, and if 
lower it will come in contact with the supporting bracket, m either 
case causing endless trouble. As the shuttle is brought forward 



WEAVING 



165 



bv the picker, it should be so driven that its front end is inclined 
towml hereed, this method of driving t^ndhrg to cause the 
towaici tne ie«^5 T-i^i« mav be brouslit about 

shuttle to run better across the lay. Tins '^^J'^J'^ - ^.^^ 
hv havino- tlie back end of the boxes forward, out of a stiaigM line 
withTh^reld or by having the ba«k end of the picker spmdle for- 
r^iout of line with the%ack of the box. The parts are some- 
times fitted in this man- 
ner in the macbine shop, 
but if they are not, the 
fixer should see to it that 

they are. 

Patent buffers and 
checks are made to be 
fitted at the end of the box 

frame behind the picker, 
but in ph\ce of these a roU 
of cloth or several layers 
of leather tacked together, 
may be used. Such checks 

serve a two-fold purpose, 

that of reducing the jar on 

the shuttle when it reaches 

the end of the box, and 

also to keep the picker-face 

level with the guide plates, 

the latter being an essen- 
tial feature in the running 

of a box loom. Fig. 109 

shows the guide plates 

which press out the shuttle 
Avhen the boxes change if 
the picker is too far back 
from the face of the slide 




Fig. 109. Guide Plates. 



He pick" r" aU wed to renrahr in that position, the tip of the 
Ik eventually wears flat with sharp edges which cut the warp 
shuttle e™« ^^^ ^, fe, ,,iU eatch and 

^ rrSe boxes from sliding freely, cause a smash. For a 

Sr7ch^ ^ the picker on the inner end of the p.eker- 



166 WEAVING 



spindle, a strip of leather doubled three or four tmies will give 
good service, and if a leather or rawhide washer is placed in 
between each doubling, the check Avill last much longer. 

Previous to placing the picker on the spindle, be sure that it 
is perfectly straight, for it is not worth while trying to fix a 
warped picker as it will never give satisfaction. 

The normal position of the vibrator gears is with tlie small 
space on top, and it may readily be seen that hi order to accom- 
modate the risers on the cham, it is necessary to have the vibrator 
gears almost rest on the lower segment gear, hence the space is 
necessary on the bottom of the vibrator gears to allow the bottom 
segment to rotate freely. When the boxes are to be raised, a riser 
is placed on the box chain, to lift the small lever connected to the 
lifthig rods, Avhich in turn lifts the vibrator bar and vibrator gear, 
which is momitecl on the bar. This brings the vibrator gear into 
position so that the first tooth of the segment gear enters the 
space in the vibrator gear, which is then rotated one-half turn, 
drawmg with it the vibrator lever and consequently raismg the 
box lever. The vibrator gear now being turned half round the 
large space, is on top, thus allowing the top segment gear to revolve 
freely. This position will be maintained until a blank bar m the 
chain comes under the small lever, thus through the connections 
allowmg the gear to drop into contact with the bottom segment 
gear, which, rotatmg in the opposite clu^ection to the top one, re- 
turns the vibrator gear and the boxes to their first positions. 

Timing the Box Motion. Set the box motion so that when 
the boxes are changmg up or down, the bottom of the box will be 
about one-eighth of an mch above or below the race-plate, when 
the dagger is in contact with the receiver. Or, have the first tooth 
of the segment in contact with the vibrator gear when the crank 
shaft is just behmd the bottom center, commg forward. 

Upper Box Motion. The upper box motion consists mamly 
of two barrels or cylinders, with the necessary diivmg mechanism, 
which carry the box or fiUmg pattern chain and the multiplying 
chain. A detail sketch of this motion is given at Fig. 110, 
lettered for reference as follows : 

A. Box chain ratchet, which is fixed to the filling chain 
barrel. 



WEAVING 



167 



B. Small lifting lever whicli rests on the box chain. There 
are two of these, one for the smgle lever and one for the 
compound. 

C. Connecting rod which connects lever, B, with the vibrator 
bar in the lower box motion, in the sketch of which it is lettered 
E. There are two connecting rods, one for each lever. 

D. Multiplying ratchet which is fixed to the nuiltiplier 
chain barrel. 

E. E'. Elbow lever. 

F. G. Driving pawls which are mounted on tlie upper end 
of E and work in opposite directions. 

H. Small lever which rests on the multiplying chain. 

J, J'. Slide or shield controlled by H. 

K. Small lever same as H which rests on the box chain. 

L, L'. Shield controlled by K.* 

M. Small clamp fitted around the box of elbow lever, E, E'. 




Fig. 110. Upper Box Motion. 



The motion is driven through a connecting rod with a discon- 
necting device from a shell cam fixed on the pick-cam shaft. A 
stud is bolted to the loom side, forming a bearing for one end of a 
small lever which carries two studs at the other end, one on each 
side. One of these studs works in the shell-cam, and the connect- 



168 WEAVING 



ing rod, A, (Fig. Ill) is attached to the other. At the upper end 
of this connecting rod, A, is attached this disconnecting device in 
the form of a slotted lever, B, with a semi-circular recess in which 
a stud, D, is held during the oj)eration of the motion, this stud 
being fixed at the end of the elbow lever. Ordinarily the discon- 
nector fits over the stud, and as the connecting rod moves up and 
down the lower part of the elbow lever moves with it, thus causing 
the upper part to vibrate between the chain barrels actuating the 
pawls which are mounted on its upper end. A chain or cord, F, 
connects the filling fork slide to the back of the slotted lever, and 
consequently when the filling runs out or becomes broken, the 
lever is drawn back against the pressure of spring fuiger, E, which 
ordinarily holds it m position, in this way breaking the connection. 
Though the rod continues to act it is so held that the stud remains 
in the slot, not being allowed to engage in the recess and conse- 
quently the elbow lever is not actuated. ^ This action of the 
disconnector prevents the occurrence of mispicks by stopping the 
turning of the box chain. The clamp, M, holds the elbow lever in 
a fixed position when the rod is disconnected. 

Timing the Cam. When the crank shaft is on the front 
center with the shuttle in the single box, set the cam so that it 
will commence to draw down the rod, and the pawl will commence 
to turn the box chain. 

Chain Building. Risers are small iron rollers which are 
placed on the chain bars to pass under and raise the small lifting 
levers which through the connecting rods actuate the box motion 
and thus raise the boxes. A riser is always a starter. 

Smkers are small iron tubes which are placed on the chain 
bars to keep the risers in position, also being used where risers are 
not requu'ed, i. e., when the motion is not to be changed or is to 
be returned to its regular position. 

When there are but two shuttle boxes to be controlled by the 
motion, one space only is required for a riser or sinker on the 
chain. Four boxes require two spaces, six boxes require three 
spaces and when a multiplier is used at least one space more must 
be allowed. In the consideration of cham building it is as well to 
start the subject with building the box chain alone, leaving the 
multiplier until later, and the four-box motion just described is a 



WEAVING 



169 



good example on wliicli to work. The main facts to be borne in 
mind are that the single lever will raise or lower one box and the 
compound lever will raise or lower two boxes. 

A riser placed on the chain to actuate the single lever will 
lift the boxes from first to second ; a riser placed on the chain to 
actuate the compound lever will lift the boxes from first to third 
and a combmation of the two will lift the boxes from first to 
fourth, irrespective of the previous bar. To return the boxes to 




Fig. 111. Disconnecting Device. 



place, build as follows: To return from fourth to second a 
riser under the single lever ; fourth to first, a blank bar ; third to 
second a riser under the suigie lever ; second to first, a blank bar, 
fourth to third, a riser under the compound. The boxes are in the 
regular or normal position when the bottom of the top box is even 
with the race-plate, and a blank bar, i. e., a bar containing smkers 
only, is necessary to retam this position, but risers must be used to 
cause a chano-e. When possible to avoid it, never build a chain so 



170 WEAVING 



as to cause the boxes to jump from first to fourth or fourth to first, 
because in so doing the motion is subjected to a greater strain 
than it should be, and constant fixing will be required. If soft or 
loosely spun filling is being used in one shuttle, run that shuttle in 
the top box to prevent the fibres of the loose filling from clinging 
to the other filling and causing a bad selvedge. 

Example : Suppose a chain is required to weave the following 
colors, 4 red, 4 white, 4 red, 4 white, 2 black, 2 green, 2 black, 4 
white, 4 red, 4 white, making 34 picks in the pattern. Each bar 
in the cham has the value of two picks because the shuttle passes 
from the multiple box to the single box and back again, before a 
change can be made, and for 34 picks 17 bars are required. Place 
the red in the top box, the white in the second box, the black in 
the third box, the green in the fourth box. Then the chain would 
be built according to the following directions : 

4 picks of red will require two blank bars or sinkers. 

4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever, and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 
4 " " red " " two blank bars. 
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever, and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 
2 " " black " " one bar, with a riser under the compound 

lever, and a sinker under the single lever. 
2 " " green " " one bar with a riser under both single and 

compound levers. 
2 " " black " " one bar with a riser under the compound 

lever, and a sinker under the single lever. 
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 
4 " " red " " two blank bars. 
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever and a sinker 

under the compound lever, on two bars. 

34 . 

The above is indicated on design paper as shown in Fig. 112; 
C, meaning compound lever ; S, single lever ; x, a riser ; and — , a 
sinker. Any chain where a multiplier is not used, may be laid out 
in a similar manner by increasing or decreasing the number of bars 
as required, using one bar for each two picks. 

The riultiplier. The multiplier is of great value as its use 
saves time in building box chains, and also reduces greatly the 
length of chain required. It is especially valuable when large 



WEAVING 



171 



check patterns are to be woven, for however hxrge the pattern is, 
the multiplymg cham can be so built as to reduce the box chain 
to a comparatively small number of bars. In mills where blankets 
are woven it is customary to use a double and occasionally a triple 
multiplier, one multiplying the other. The mul- 
tiplier does not control the box motion, but does 
control the box chain, giving to every bar in the 
box chain, which carries a multiplying riser on it, 
the value of the multiplier itself, whatever that 
may be. A multiplier has for its value twice as 
many picks as there are bars in the chain without 
repeat, i. e., a 4-pick multiplier would require only 
two bars one blank and one carrying a box chain 
riser, but these would have to be repeated to give 
sufficient length of chain to go around the chain 
barrel. The multipliers most connnonly used are 
4, 6, 8, 10, 20, 30, and a bar in the box chain 
carrymg a multiplying riser has the respective 
value as indicated, because the box chain will 
remain stationary while that number of picks are 
placed in the cloth. The box chain is stationary 
while the multiplier is working, and the multiplier 
is stationary while the box chain is working, a 
riser always being the starter or changer from one 
chain to the other. 

A multiplying riser on the box cham starts the multiplier and 
stops the box chain, which starts again when a riser comes up on 
the multiplier chain. The multiplier which will reduce the length 
of the box cham to the greatest extent, without requiring an ex- 
cessively long multiplying cham, should always be selected. In a 
pattern liavmg 20 picks of one color and 10 each of two other 
colors it would seem as though a 20-pick multiplier would give the 
p-reatest amount of reduction, but this is not the case, as a 10-pick 

o 

multiplier mstead would be better. A multiplying chain may be 
used continuously for two or more repeats, adding a bar with a 
multiplying riser to the box chain for each repeat, or for any num- 
ber of picks greater than its value, by adding one bar to the box 
chain for every two picks extra, but it cannot be used for a number 



s. 


c. 


x 


— 


X 




X 





X 




— 


X 


X 


X 




X 


X 




X 




X 




X 


— 



Fiir. 112. 



172 WEAVING 



of picks smaller than its value, hence the reason for the statement 
that a 10-pick multiplier should be used for the given pattern. As 
a proof, for a pattern composed of 20 white, 10 black, 10 red, using 
a 20-pick multiplier, one bar, carrying a multiplying riser, would 
be required for the 20 picks of white, five ordinary bars would be 
required for the black, and five for the red, making 11 bars in all 
with 20 bars in the multiplier chain, a total of 31. Using a 10- 
pick multiplyer, two bars carrying multiplymg risers, would be re- 
quired for the white, and one each, carrying multiplying risers, for 
the black and red, making 4 bars for the box chain, which together 
with the 10 bars required for the multiplier would make a total of 
only 14 bars. 

As a further example, suppose the pattern is required to be 
composed of 20 pink, 20 white, 20 pink, 10 white, 2 cord pink, 10 
white, 20 pink, 20 white. Working out the chains for this pat- 
tern to find whether a 20-pick or a 10-pick multiplier would be 
better, the result would be as follows : 

10-PlCK 20-PlCK 

Picks. Multiplier. Multiplier. 

1 
1 
1 
5 
1 
6 
1 
1 

13 bars 16 bars 

For this pattern also the 10-pick multiplier would require the 
shorter chain, 13 bars being required for the box chain with the 10- 
pick multiplier, and 16 bars being required with the 20-pick mul- 
tiplier. If the length of the multiplier chain is also taken into 
account, the difference becomes still more favorable to the 10-pick 
multiplier, as 13 box chain plus 10 multiplier =23 bars total re- 
quired, using a 10-pick mviltiplier ; and 16-box chain plus 20 mul- 
tiplier = 36 bars total required using a 20-pick multiplier. 
The length of the multiplier chain, however, should not receive too 
much consideration as in building a multiplier chain it is only 
necessary to place a single riser on one bar as a changer. 



20 pink 


2 


20 white 


2 


20 piuk 


2 


10 white 


1 


2 cord pink 


1 


10 white 


1 


20 pink 


2 


20 white 


2 



WEAVING 173 



As a pattern where a larger multipler will allow the use of a 
shorter box chain, the one worked out as follows is a good one. 





16- 


■Pick 


8- 


-Pick 


Picks. 


Mui 


TIPLIEB. 


MULTIPLIER. 


26 Dark Green 




6 




4 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 


16 Light Green 




1 




2 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 


4 Black 




2 




2 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 


16 Light Green 




1 




2 


16 Medium Green 




1 




2 



14 bars 18 bars 

Here again, the total number of bars required is less when the 
smaller multipler is used, because only four bars in the box chain 
are saved by the addition of eight bars to the multiplier, the differ- 
ence being four bars in favor of the smaller multiplier. For the 26 
picks the 8-pick multiplier repeats three times, giving 24 picks to 
3 bars in the box chain with one ordinary bar for the two picks 
over, making 4 bars for the 26 picks. For the 16 picks the mul- 
tiplier repeats twice, having two bars in the box chain, and for the 
four picks black two ordinary bars are required with the multiplier 
stopped. Careful judgment must be used in arranging the colors 
in the boxes. In all ordinary cases the best method is to place that 
color of which most is used, in the top box, but when this necessi- 
tates jumping more than two boxes the colors should be placed 
differently according to the limitations imposed. This arrange- 
ment may easily be used for the pattern in hand, placing the Dark 
(rreen in the first box. Medium Green in the second. Light Green 
in the third, and Black in the fourth. 



[CKS. 


Color. 


Box. 


26 


Dark Green 


1 


16 


Medium Green 


2 


16 


Light Green 


3 


16 


Medium Green 


2 


4 


Black 


4 


16 


Medium Green 


. 2 


16 


Light Green 


3 


16 


Medium Green 


2 



The box and multiplier chains are now worked out on design 
paper as illustrated in Fig. 113. 



174 



WEAVING 



Start the chains with the riser in the multiplier chain on the 
top, so that the front end of the shield is clear from the teeth of 
the box cham ratchet. This allows the pawl to turn the box 
cham, and if the first bar carries a multiplying riser it will cause 
the front end of the shield to clear the multiplier ratchet, which is 





BOX 




MULTIPLYING 




CHAIN. 




CHAIN. 


M. 


s. 


c. 




X 

X 

X 










— 




X 


X 






X 


X 






X 




X 




X 




X 


X 


X 


X 






X 


X 








X 


X 




— 


X 


X 




X 


X 






X 


X 






X 




X 




X 




X 




X 


X 






X 


X 







Fig. 113. 



then turned bringing up a blank bar or sinker, thus allowing the 
back end of the shield to be down with the front end coverinsr the 
teeth of the box chain ratchet, so preventing the box chain from be- 
ing turned. The shield of the multiplier being clear, owing to the 
riser on the box chain, the multiplier works around until the riser 
comes up, Avhich clears the shield from the box chain ratchet, and 
the box cham is agam started up. 

From the above it is readily seen that it is the multiplymg 
riser on the box chain which starts the multiplier, and it is the 



WEAVING 175 



riser on the multiplier which again starts the box chain. If both 
chams were so set that a sinker came at the top of each, neither 
one would be turned and only one color of filling would be woven 
into the cloth. 

Worn vibrator gear studs and worn studs in the protection 
lever are the most frequent causes of trouble in this form of box 
motion. When the latter becomes worn or the spring is too weak, 
the lever slips and the boxes are not lifted high enough. If the 
gear stud is worn there is a tendency for the gear to become 
sprung or the first tooth to break. The first two or three teeth 
in the gear and segment become worn and allow them to spring 
out of mesh. Incorrect timing of the lock-knife will cause skips, 
and incorrect tuning of the chain barrel will cause broken risers 
and bent chams. Care must be taken in tuning the boxes and 
fittmg the swells, as previously explained. Sometimes when a 
loom bangs off with the shuttle partly in the shed, a smash results, 
due to the boxes being set early so that the protection finger is in 
contact with the edge of the swell, preventing the protection from 
working. A protection finger, worn so that the flat part rests 
against the other binder, will occasionally cause a smash in a 
sunilar way. If there is insufficient movement given to the 
dagger, owing to faulty fixing of the binder by bending out the 
end instead of shaping it properly, smashes often occur, and in 
addition the inner part of the bmder will cut the filling by pressing 
against the box frame. 

To Prevent Filling from Drawing, first examine the filling, 
and if one shuttle contains soft spun filling it should be placed in 
the top box, as it is almost impossible to prevent the filling from 
drawmg m if the soft filling is between the others, because it 
causes them to cling together. If the shuttles cannot readily be 
chauo-ed, or if the filling is all alike, bend a piece of wire into a 
bow and fix it in the lay sole near the box entrance, with about 
one and one-half inches extending above the race-plate. Should 
this not answer the purpose, fix a narrow band of leather to the 
boxes near the entrance, extending from bottom to top. Avoid as 
far as possible jumpuig the boxes from first to fourth or from 
fourth to first, especially the latter, as the tendency to rebound is 
o-reater on the descent than on 'the rise. Many fixers tighten up 



176 WEAVING 



the protection spring on the box rod, believing that the sprmg is 
only for that purpose, which of course is not the case. Its pur- 
pose is to protect the motion from becoming broken if the shuttle 
sticks in the boxes or if they are held fast by some other cause, 
and the tighter the sprmg is, the less protection will be given. 
Jumpmg of the boxes is usually clue to mcorrect timing of the 
eccentric gears. They will sometimes run well when the slow 
speed comes on at the fuiish, thus easing off the boxes, while at 
other times it is necessary to set them with the fast speed, just 
finishing so as to get the boxes started before the fast speed is put 
on, otherwise the chain travels more quickly than the boxes. 
Heavy lifting of the harnesses often influences the boxes, the 
heavy lift causing extra vibration to the upper motion. 

CROMPTON QINQHAn LOOM, 4x1 BOXES. 

The Upper Box Motion. Similarly to the Knowles Gingham 
Loom, the box motion of the Crompton Gmgham Loom is com- 
posed of an upper and a lower motion. The upper motion con- 
sists of box chain, chain barrel and multiplier, together with the 
necessary drivmg pawls and ratchets as illustrated in Fig. 114. 

The Multiplier. A disc multiplier is used on this motion, 
{. e., a multiplier run without a chain. The disc, B, which has 
two indentations, C, in its circumference, carries a ratchet. A, of a 
variable number of teeth. Pressing against the disc is a small 
finger, actmg in combination with a slide, D, on the same stud 
which extends under a pin fixed in the driving pawl, H. When 
the finger is held on the circumference of the disc the driving pawl 
is held out of contact with the filling chain ratchet, but when the 
finger enters the indentation the slide drops away, allowmg the 
pawl, H, to engage with the ratchet and turn the filling cham. 
There is also a lever, E, pivoted on the same stud which carries 
the disc, one end of which extends over the cham at F, and the 
other extends du-ectly under the end of the pawl, G, which 
operates the multiplier ratchet. When a nmltiplymg riser comes 
up on the box chain it raises the lower end of the lever, E, and 
consequently lowers the upper end, allowmg the pawl, G, to engage 
with the ratchet. A, thus turning the disc until the finger agam 
enters an indentation. Then the slide, D, drops, allowing the 



WEAVING 



177 



pawl, H, to engage with the - fiUmg chain ratchet which continues 
to turn until another multiplying riser comes up on the chain. 

To change the value of the multiplier a ratchet of a different 
number of teeth is substituted. Each tooth has the value of two 
picks, but owing to the disc having two indentations the value of 
the multiplier is half the number of teeth in the ratchet. The value 
of a multiplier may readily be doubled by attaching a piece of tin 
to the disc so as to cover up one indentation, when its value will 
become double the whole number of teeth. The disc multiplier is 
an exceptionally good meclianism as it is simple, positive in action, 
and has no links to get out of order, thereby requiring very little 
fixing. 

The upper box motion is operated through a double cam. A, 




Pig. 114. Upper Box Motion. 



(Fig. 116) fixed on the pick cam shaft, one part of which actu- 
ates, through the connections, the oscillating lever on which are 
mounted the drivmg pawls. A disconnector, which prevents the 
driving rod from working when the filling breaks, is actuated by 
the smaller part of the cam, which also assists in drawing back the 
motion after a disconnection has taken place. The dwell of 
the laro-er part of the cam is one-half a revolution of the pick cam 



178 



WEAVING 



shaft, equal to a full revolution of the crank shaft, and the smaller 
cam has one-half the dwell of the larger. There are two separate 
elbow levers, C and D, between which the cams revolve, both 
being pivoted on the same stud, E, which is attached to the cross 
rail of the loom. A catch slide, L, is attached to the upper end 
of the lower elbow lever, D, at F, and the driving rod, G, which 
drives the upper box motion, is attached at the other end. The 




Fig 115. Crompton Gingham Loom. 



upper elbow lever, C, is actuated by the large cam, and carries, 
fixed on a stud, H, at the elbow, a spring clamp which also grips a 
stud fixed in the upper part of the lower lever, D, at J. As the 
cams revolve, the large one coming in contact with the upper elbow 
lever, raises it, and by the combined action of the sprmg clamp 
and the spring, K, the lower elbow lever is also actuated. A 
slotted bar, M, is supported by a bracket fixed to the loom side, 
and the slide, L, works in the slot of this bar when the motion is 



WEAVING 



179 



ill operation. Wlien the filling breaics, the fork-slide draws back 
and lifts a finger which is also in contact with the slotted bar, M, 
thus raising the slotted bar so that as the slide is driven forward 
the catch comes in contact with the bottom of the slot, with the 
result that further forward movement is prevented, and the stud 
on the lever, D, at J, is forced out of connection with the spring 
clamp. This stud being out of connection, the connecting 
rod cannot be lifted sufficiently high to cause the pawl to turn the 




Fig. 116. Disconnecting Device. 



ratchet gear on the filling chain barrel, and all operation of the box 
motion ceases. While the elbow levers are disconnected, the 
tension spring, K, is extended, and it will draw the upper elbow 
lever back into position when allowed to contract ; this is called 
the grasshopper motion. 

The Lower Box Motion. This motion, which is illustrated 
in Fig. 117, is known as the pin gear motion, deriving its name 
from the manner of driving the large segment or space gear, B, 



180 



WEAVING 



The pin gear, also termed the clog, is attached to the end of the 
pick cam shaft, and as the shaft revolves, the pin, A, enters one of 
the recesses in the segment gear, B, advancing the gear one space 
for each revolution. There are ten spaces on the inside separated 
by recesses, and on the outside the gear is divided into ten 
segments of seven teeth each, with blank spaces between, so an 




Fig. 117. Lower Box Motion. 



advancement of one space has the value of seven teeth. The 
segment gear revolves on a stud fixed to the frame, about 3| 
inches forward of the pick cam shaft. At the top and side of the 
segment gear, small shafts, C C, are placed, carrymg at one end 
.cams, Avhich operate the box lever. The cam on top lifts 
one box, and the side cam lifts two. A small segment gear, E, 
having two spaces, separating as many segments of six teeth each, 
is also fitted on each shaft, together with a double fork or slide, F, 
which has a projection, G, on each side. These projections are 
of such foriji as to fill the spaces in the small segment gear, and 



WEAVING 



181 



act the part of a broad tooth, meshing with the spaces in the kirge 
segment gear. 

One side of the shde is twice as long as the other, and conse- 
quently when one projection is filling a space on the gear, the 
other is out of connection; the short end being the starter or 
raiser, and the long end the returner. Each slide is operated by a 
small elboAv lever, H, which is connected by the connecting rod, J, 




Fig. 118. Cromptoii Gingham Loom. 



to one of the small levers in the upper motion under which the 
risers m the chain pass. The flat portion of the projection, when 
in the small segment gear, ahuost touches the teeth of the large 
segment gear, so that the projection catches, when the small 
segment gear is turned, and the teeth of both large and small 
segment gears are brought into mesh. There is but one box lever 
required with this motion, and this is shown at K, with the spring 
clamp, L, gripping a stud fixed to its outer end. The lower end 
of the clamp is attached to the bottom of the box lifting rod, N. 



182 



WEAVING 



A small fiiiger called the check fiiiger, is provided to hold each 
cam in place, being held in contact with the small studs by means 
of a spiral spring. 

The normal position of the motion is with the short ends of 
both slides nearest the larger gear, and when a riser lifts the con- 
necting rod, the small elbow lever presses in the slide until the 




Fig. 119. Crompton Gingham Loom. 



projection fills up the blank space on the gear. Then as the seg- 
ment gear is advanced by the pin gear, the teeth engage with those 
of the small segment gear, turning it half around, and consequently 
the cam at the end of the shaft will be given a half turn, thus 
lifting the boxes. Actuating the top cam lifts one box, and the 
bottom cam hfts two, or both together lift three. The small gear 
being turned one-half revolution, the long side of the slide is now 
next the segment gear. To cause the box to change back agam a 



WEAVING 



18S 



sinker is brought up under the top lever, allowing the connecting 
rod to fall, thus drawmg the projection on the long slide into 
place, and completing the revolution of small gear, when the boxes 
will return to their normal position. The spring clamp, L, serves 
the purpose of a protection device to prevent breakage of bonces or 
shuttles m case of a shuttle or picker binding in the boxes. When 
the boxes catch, the stud on the box lever is forced out of connec- 
tion, and slides up the crank, thus preventmg the lifting rod from 
bemg raised. 




Fig. 120. Crompton Gingham Loom. 



Timing and Fixing of the Motion. To time the motion set 
the pin gear with the pin on the bottom center when the crank is 
on the back center and the shuttles bemg picked from the box 
§ide ; or with the pm on the top center when the crank is on the 
back center with the shuttle being picked from the single box. 



184 WEAVING 



When this box motion is fitted to some other make of loom, the 
stnd wliich supports the large segment gear is often below the 
center of the pick cam shaft, m which case the timmg must be 
changed to suit requirements. Set the pin on the top center with 
the crank shaft on the top center and the shuttle at the box end. 

Set the head motion driving cams with the small cam on the 
bottom center, when the crank shaft is just behind the bottom 
center comhig forward, and the shuttle is in the single box. As 
the smgle box lever used with this motion must necessarily supply 
both single and compound leverage two fulcrums are required, the 
upper cam serving as one, and the stud upon which the inner end 
of the box lever is pivoted, acting as tlie other. This being the 
case, it is impossible to change the position of the stud at either 
end of the lever, without affecting the leverage at the otlier end. 
For example, suppose the first box is set level with the race-plate, 
but o]i raising the second box, it is found to be too low. Moving 
• out the stud, M, would obviate this, but it is probable that the lift 
would be excessive for the third box, and not only that, but the 
first box would be too low when returned to normal position. 
Under, such conditions, the only satisfactory method of setting this 
motion is to work m between the two points of leverage. Starting 
first with the studs, jM and R, near the centers of their respective slots, 
with M inclined to the outer end, move out S and its connection 
ahnost to the limit, and let it remain in this position, because the 
slightest cliange at this point makes a great difference in the lift 
of the boxes. INIoving out stud, S, causes the boxes to be lower 
when normal, but to raise higlier when turning the bottom cam. 
iMoving in stud, R, has a similar effect, while setting hi stud, M, 
closer causes the boxes to be higher in their normal position and 
lower when raised. 

In connection with some box motions, the boxes are found to- 
be higher or lower, according to the position of the lay. This 
occurs to the greatest extent where a box motion is fitted to a 
different make of loom, but will ne^'er oceui- if. tlie lifting rod and 
connections are set to inove in the same arc as the la}'. When the 
boxes do change position, grt-at care must be used in setting them; 
the best method being to have the boxes a trifle high when the 



WEAVING 185 



crank is on the top center, as this allows for a slight drop as the 
lay swings back. 

The greatest cause of trouble on this motion is the loosening 
of tlie small segment gear, and this will seldom occur if due care is 
used in fitting the gear on the shaft, and in fixing the motion after- 
wards. Trouble of this sort is met with most frequently on the 
old type of motion, which is fitted with a check cam to prevent the 
motion from turning too far. It is the jarring of the cam against 
the check finger which is the objectionable feature, as the sudden 
check must sooner or later wear the check cam and loosen both the 
box cam and the gear. 

This motion is not hard to fix if thought is devoted to it, 
and once thoroughly fixed it will remain in good condition for 
months. If the small gear should become loose, care must be used 
in replacing the worn pin, for with a small shaft sprung, the condi- 
tion is worse than witli a loose gear, due to the binding in the 
bearings, which is difficult to remedy. 

The small shaft, C, is a pivot or swivel bearing attaclied by a 
pin to the framework of the motion, a spring bolt keeping the 
bearing in place during the ordinary running of the motion. When 
anythmg becomes fast between the two gears, or the teeth of the 
small segment do not mesh with the teeth of the large segment, the 
spring bolt allows the bearing to be pressed out of position, thereby 
separating the two gears and preventing breakage. Occasionally 
the spring bolt becomes loose, allowing the small gear to work out 
of mesh ^vitli the large gear, and in this way causing a mispick 
or skipping of the boxes. Sometimes under these conditions the 
small gear skips one tooth, only meshing with the second tooth 
of the large gear. 

Worn projections on the fork-slides also cause skipping, 
because mstead of the projection engaging with the first tooth of 
the space gear, the slide springs out. Both slides are alike, but as 
they work in opposite directions they l)ecome worn on opposite 
sides, and therefore may be mterchanged when worn, giving 
results as good as new ones. 

A Avasher is placed at the end of the single cam to prevent 
the box lever from slipping, and this Avasher becoming loose Avill 
sometimes bind on the shaft and thus cause skipping. If it 



186 . WEAVING 



becomes very troublesome remove it, and nothing serious will 
occur if the motion is set in correct alignment. 

Incorrect timing of the chain barrel, bent chain bars, or 
broken risers, all have the effect of preventmg the fork slide from 
moving into place, and skipping is the result. Cham links riding 
on the cham barrel also cause skipping. Insufficient lubrication 
of the shaft, C, the chain lever studs, or the finger rod bearing, 
will prevent the slide from returning to place when the boxes are 
to be lowered. A small coil spring placed around the bearing of 
the finger rod in contact with the finger will help to draw m the 
slide. The hook to which the check finger spring is attached, 
works loose occasionally, and allows the small gear to turn a trifle 
too far. This may cause one of several effects, such as the boxes 
lifting too high or dropping too low, the picker to become fast in 
the boxes, or the teeth of the small gear will not mesh with those 
of the large gear. Binding of the boxes in the slides tends to 
injure the motion owing to the mcreased amount of pressure 
to which the gears are subjected. The stud, M, soon wears out if 
not sufficiently oiled, necessitating constant fixing of the boxes, as 
the stud becoming worn allows the boxes to drop lower than they 
should. It is seldom that the pin in the pin gear requires atten- 
tion. If the large segment gear shows a tendency to travel too 
far after the pin gear has left it, the probable cause is a worn 
supporting stud. 

This form of box motion is one of the best and most com- 
pactly built, and is adaptable to either slow or fast speed. The 
parts are substantial, and if the motion is kept well oiled and care- 
fully fixed, it will probably require fewer repairs than any other 
box motion. 

TEMPLES. 

Temples are for the purpose of keeping the cloth stretched as 
near as possible to the reed width during the weaving process. 
As much care sh ^uld be used in setting the temples as is used m 
setting the pick-motion, because unless the cloth is kept approxi- 
mately to the width of the warp in the reed the edges Aviil not 
weave as they should. A very slight twist on the temple or a 
little too much distance from the fell of the cloth is often the 



WEAVING 



187 



cause of great loss of time. Temples are made for almost every 
kind of cloth woven, and the kind of cloth to be woven should 
always be considered when purchasing temples. 

Temples may be divided into two distinct types, burr or roller 
temples and ring temples, each of these types being again sub- 



-"b—^"-^ 




Fig. 121. Burr. 



J 




-V^^-'V^^-V-^r-^i-v-5?-v-^ 



Fig. 122. Burr. 



divided mto several varieties. The burrs are made of brass, steel 
and wood, the latter being the most common, and they are fitted 
with teeth or pins, set spirally around the roller, varying in number 
and height of setting. Singly the burrs are from 11 inches to 2^ 
inches long, but often two or three of the smaller ones are used 
together, and they vary m diameter from 1 inch to ii inch, some 
of them being cylindrical and others tapered. Figs. 121, 122 and 
123 show three different burrs to be used for cloth, ranging from 
fine to moderately heavy cotton or silk cloth. Fig. 124 shows a 
left-hand temple fitted to the. breast beam. It is a spring temj^le 
and one of the best possible for general work. A hinge temple is 
shown at Fig. 125. The burrs and pods or trouglis in which they 
work are similar to those in Fig. 124, the difference bemg hi the 
position hi which they are fixed. Sprmg temples are probably the 



188 



WEAVING 



best because of the greater ease of adjustment. Figs. 126, 127, 
128 and 129 show four different varieties of inclined ring temples. 
Fig. 12(3 is a combined right-hand temple. Fig. 127 shows roll 
with rings attached. This temple is suited for heavy Avcight 




Fie-. 123. Burr. 




Fig. 124. Left-hand Temple. 



cotton goods and light weight worsteds. Figs. 128 and 129 show 
temples suitable for heavy woolens and worsteds. King temples 
are made from two to fifteen rings, the number being determined 



WEAVING 



189 



by the Aveight of the fabric to be woven. The horizontal ring 
temple, which is illustrated at Fig. 130, is used exclusively for 
fabrics which must be gripped only on the selvedo-e. 




Fig. 125. Hinge Temple. 




Fig. 126. Combined Right-hand Temple. 



As previously stated, temples are to maintain the fell of the 
cloth at the same width as the warp in the reed, and in doing this 
temple marks often result, i. e., holes are made in the cloth by the 
pins m the temple. Every precaution sliould be taken to avoid 



190 



WEAVING 



such, particularly on fine goods, and it is fine cloth which is most 
likely to become so. injured. Sometimes the finest burrs will make 
temple marks, in which case tapered burrs should be used, and the 
pins covered with tissue paper or very thm cloth until only the 
points show through. Filling is sometimes wound around the burrs 




Fig. 127. Inclined Ring Temple. 




Fig. 128. Inclined Ring Temple. 



for the same purpose, but paper or thin cloth is preferable. Usmg 
burrs which are too coarse is often the cause of temple marks on 
fine goods, and finer burrs must be used to remedy any such fault. 
Blunted or bent pins and incorrect setting are also frequent causes 
of temple marks. The face of the temple should be set parallel to 
the fell of the cloth at a distance of from J^ inch to i inch accord- 
ing to circumstances. A small amount of action to the temple 
always has a beneficial effect, especially when it is set close to the 
fell of the cloth, because it reduces the stram on the selvedge 



WEAVING 



191 



threads, when the lay beats up. 
piece of leather m such a 
position that it will strike 
against the heel of the temple 
when the lay swmgs forward, 
a sufificient amount of motion 
is given for ordmary require- 
ments. 

It is common practice on 
medium and light weight 
goods to use burrs for both 
temples m which the spikes 
are set in the same direction, 
the idea being that as long as 
the spiral turns toward the 
outer end of the burr they 
will work as they should. On 
some grades of cloth this holds 
true, but it may easily be seen 
that while the pins point 
toward the outer end and tend 
to pull the cloth that way, yet 
the spiral setting of the pins 
in both temples is the same, 
i. e., the spiral setting runs 
toward the right, and a burr 
set in this way would act bet- 
ter in a right hand temple 
with the cloth runnmg over 
it, because every turn of the 
spiral would give the pins a 
closer grip. With such a 
burr in the left-hand temple 
the cloth is held by the incline 
of the pins alone, and the 
method of settmg tends to 
allow the selvedge to run in, 
rather than to keep it stretched out 



By attaching to the lay sole a 




Fig. 129. Temple. 
When weaving heavy goods 



192 



WEAVING 



this objectionable tendency of one selvedge to draw in, caused by 
using temples of the same setting for both sides, becomes more 
strongly apparent, and that selvedge becoming slack does not 
weave as it should. 

Right and left-hand burrs are now obtainable, and they should 
be used if the best results are desired. . When fitting burrs the 
spnal settiug of the pins must turn toward the right, i. e., like a 
right-hand screw, for the right-hand temple, and toward the left 
for the left-hand temple, if the cloth is to be kept at width, for 
otherwise the cloth will be drawn m. 




Fig. 130. Horizontal Ring Temple. 



The roll m the rmg temple may be raised or lowered to change 
the amount of grip by which it holds the clotli. The higher it is, 
the firmer grip it has on the cloth, and the lower it is, the weaker grip 
it has. This method of adjustment allows the temple to be accom- 
modated to various weights of cloth. _ One of the best rmg temples 
mtended to permit of ready adjustment to various grades of goods, 
is illustrated in Fig. 131. The washer. A, is made with an eccen- 
tric ring bearing, upon which the pin ring is placed, and this washer 
is turned on the stud, C, so as to increase or diminish the length of 
the pin extendmg above tlie washer, tlius regulating the contact of 
the puis with the cloth. The stud, C, is shown carrying the base 
against which the washers and rings are placed, there being also a 
solid piece burr tapered on the inner end of the stud. 

The Hardaker temple is intended to be used on close shed 
looms, especially as the teinplc works with the cloth, thereby pre- 



WEAVING 



193 



venting injury to the clotli by the temple. On heavy goods there 
is always considerable movement to the cloth when the lay is beat- 
ing up, and as it leaves the fell of the cloth. There is also a cpn- 
sidearl)le rise and fall to the clotli, the movement being greatest 
with the heaviest shed. These temples allow for that movement, 





I 



i[ 



Fig. 131. Ring Temple. 



and should be set close to the fell of the cloth, mclined slightly 
toward the race. 

CENTER STOP MOTION. 

This type of fillmg stop motion is usually fitted to woolen and 
worsted looms, and is of especial value when smgle picks of certain 
colors are being woven mto the cloth, because the loom will be 
stopped on the broken pick if the motion is in good order. 



194 WEAVING 



The motion is generally fitted to the center of the lay, but on 
carpet looms two feeler motions are fitted one near each end of the 
lay sole. It must be kept m the best condition by accurate fixing if 
good results are to be obtained. A detail drawing of the motion 
used on the Knowles Broad Loom is shown at Fig. 132. The feeler 
wires, A, are attached to the base or hub which carries a small 
crank, B, this being connected through the adjusting rod, 
C, to the dagger lever, the dagger being attached to the end 
of this at right angles to it. G is a bracket fixed to the breast 
beam, having mounted upon it the inclined slide, F, the receiving 
lever, H, the protection slide, L, and the slide finger, M. The 
knock-off finger, J, is attached to the rod, K, which extending under 
the breast beam is in contact with the shipper handle. A flat steel 
spring, N, is also attached to K, for the purpose of holding M in 
place when the loom is stopped. 

As represented in Fig. 132 the loom is stopped with the lay 
just forward of the back center, the feeler wires being raised to 
allow the shuttle to pass under and lay the filling under the wires 
when the loom is started. When the shipper handle is drawn 
forward to start the loom, the knock-off finger is raised up under 
the projection, H', on the receiver, H, thus causing the upper end to 
extend above the bracket, G, the lower end being pivoted at H". 
As the lay swmgs forward, the dagger, E, slides down the incline 
of F, allowing the feelers to drop, and if there is no filling under 
them they drop into a recess cut in the lay sole. This allows the 
dagger to drop far enough to strike against the upper end of the 
receiver, H, and as the lay continues to swing forward, the receiver 
being pressed down carries with it the knock-off finger, thus, 
through the connections, stopping the loom. If there is a strand 
of fiUmg under the feelers, they are held up so that the dagger 
cannot strike against the receiver, and the loom contmues to run. 
The protection slide, L, acts only on the first pick after each start- 
up. 

Immediately as the loom stops, the flat spring, N, causes the 
finger, M, to force the slide sufficiently high to protect the receiver 
from the dagger. When the power is applied by drawing forward 
the shipper handle, the spring, N, is drawn away from the fuiger, 
releasing the pressure on the slide, but the latter remains in place 



WEAVING 



195 



until the dagger strikes tlie hook at L' and forces the slide out of 
the way, leaving the receiver in position to act. This protection 
slide is necessary for the reason that often after the loom is 
stopped, the lay is drawn forward and then pushed back, when 
the feelers pass under the filling, and if no protection slide were 
provided the dagger would strike the receiver thus stoppmg the 
loom. When no protection slide is fitted, it is necessary to place 
the filling under the feeler wires in order to prevent the dagger 
from striking the receiver, thus occasioning a loss of time. 




Fig. 132. Knowles Broad Loom Motion. 



Timing the Motion. The inclined slide, F, is adjustable to 
control the action and position of the feeler wires. By lowering 
the front end and raising the back, the feelers are caused to rise 
more quickly. On looms fitted with two sets of feelers the slide 
must be set to raise the feelers as quickly as possible, otherwise 
the shuttle may strike and bend them. If this happens they are 
held up by the warp threads, and the loom will not be stopped 
even if the filling is broken. Adjust the slide, F, and adjusting 
rod, C, so that the feelers will be raised almost the height of the 
shed when the crank shaft is between the top and back centers 
and the dagger is almost at the top of the slide. Set the feelers 



196 WEAVING 



ill the base so that | mch to i mch will remain on the filling when 
the dagger passes the receiver ; and yet they should pass clear of 
the rib of the reed when in the lay sole, to prevent any possibility 
of the feeler wires catching in case of the yarn dropping to the 
bottom of the reed. With the lay drawn forward so that the 
crank is on the bottom center, the dagger should be at the bottom 
of the slide at ^ inch to ^ inch from the receiver. This range is 
given to cover a variety of looms. For the Knowles Loom the 
distance is generally i inch, but on the Crompton Loom the dagger 
should be in contact with the receiver when the crank shaft is on 
the bottom center, and occasional!}^ with some looms the dagger is 
set m contact with the receiver when tlie crank shaft is just behind 
the bottom center. 

On the Knowles Narrow Loom a different form of center stop 
motion is used. As illustrated in Fig. 132, the motion is composed 
of the following pieces : A, the feelers ; B, feeler cam ; C, connect- 
ing rod ; D, dagger lever ; E, dagger ; F, adjusting rod ; G, adjust- 
ing point ; G', bracket ; H, receiver ; I, lock finger ; J, rod upon 
which lock finger and shield, K, are placed ; L, shield finger ; M, 
fuiger rod ; N, locking lever. The adjusting rod, F, is pivoted on 
an adjustable stud, G, attached to the bracket, G', which is fitted 
to the cross-brace of the loom and extending upward through the 
bracket on the lay sole, the end comes in contact with the dagger 
lever. It is so adjusted as to push up against the dagger lever, 
thus raising the feelers as the lay swings back. As the lay swings 
forward the rod is drawn down, allowing the lever to drop and 
v/ith it .the feelers, so that if there is no filling under the feelers, 
the dagger is allowed to strike the receiver, H, thus stopping the 
loom. The locking lever, N, is attached to the brake-rod upon 
which is also fixed a projection coming in contact with the shipper 
handle. 

When the dagger point strikes the receiver, the lock-finger, I, 
is raised up, thus releasing the lock lever, and allowmg the pro- 
jection on the brake-rod to force off the shipper handle. If there 
is a pick of fillmg under the feelers when they descend, the dagger 
is held out of contact with the receiver, and the loom continues to 
run. The shield, K, is controlled by the finger, L, and rod, M, the 
outer end of the rod being in contact, with the shipper handle. 



WEAVING 19^ 



Wlien the loom is stopped the shield covers, the receiver, prevent- 
hm- the dagger from striking it, thereby allowing the loom to be 
turned over by hand, but when the shipper handle is drawn mto 
place, the finger forces up the shield and leaves the receiver free to 
be acted upon by the dagger. This form of stop motion is one 
of the most instantaneous in action because, immediately as the 
dagger strikes the receiver, the power is removed and the brake 

^^^' 'in'setting this motion have the dagger point in contact with 
the receiver when the crank shaft is on the bottom center. The 
feelers are raised to the highest point when the adjusting rod is 
perpendicular, the crank shaft being between the back and bottonr 
centers. To lessen the lift of the feelers move the adjustmg rod 
pivot farther back in the slot of the bracket, G', or adjust by chang- 
ing the screw connection on the lower end of the rod. Tire former 

method is the better. 

When weaving tender filling if the feelers rest so heavily on 
it as to break it often, or cause it to kink in the cloth, a smal 
wei-ht may be attached^to the back end of the dagger ever at 
point D' Or set the feelers so that they will not descend so low 
Into the feeler slot, changing also the timing of the motion to be 
slightly early, i. e., to have the feelers leave the fi mg a little 
sooner than ordhiarily would be the case. Occasionally a piece of 
wire is so inserted in the feeler slot as to come between the feelers 
and in this way prevent the filling from becoming broken or kinky. 
General fixing pomts will be described later. 

Odd Points Pertaining to Warps. Under this heading some 
of the minor problems which come up in running a loom will be 
considered. A loom ought to be cleaned, oiled, and fixed every 
time a warp is run out, and if a fixer could only realize how much 
work a small amount of attention at this time would save him, he 
would soon make it a regular practice. It is when a loom is 
empty that some little thing cair be seen, which might cause end- 
less trouble when the warp is in. How often a screw head slightly 
above the race-plate cuts the warp yarn or chips the shuttle a 
little • or the race-plate is broken behind the feeler-slot, cuttmg the 
yarn;' and sometimes a flat whip-roll has grooves worn in it which 
Lfe the yarn, when tilting it slightly will remedy the fault. 



198 WEAVING 



Accumulation of grease at the box entrance often causes dirty 
filling, and sometimes causes the shuttle to run crooked, thus 
making the warp weave badly. Unless the yarn is very poor, a 
warp seldom weaves badly in a cam loom except hi case of the 
loom bemg out of order, for which the remedy is given elsewhere. 
Sufficient attention is not given to the stretch of the yarn from the 
whip-roll to the harnesses. A warp which otherwise would not 
run, can often be run out by increasing the distance between the 
whip-roll and the harnesses. Additional lease rods will often even 
up the yarn in a warp even though a striped cloth is being woven 
from the same warp. Double cloths will usually weave better if a 
lease rod is inserted between the two warps, especially if one cloth 
is a more open weave than the other, as the take-up differs under 
such conditions, and the rod should be inserted so that the slack 
warp is underneath. 

The use of a lease rod is also a remedy for rough looking 
cloth caused by curly warp or filling yarn. Dimities often weave 
better by the use of an extra lease rod, a wire rod being preferable. 
A soft warp can be made to run better by laying across the warp a 
long cloth bag filled with French chalk, or by laying a' piece of 
wax on the warp. The latter remedy is not to be recommended 
for all cases, however, as any wax retained on the yarn proves 
detrimental to further processes such as dyeing, etc. A stiffly 
sized warp may also run better by above treatment, but a damp 
cloth laid over it, or a pail of hot water placed under it so that the 
steam will rise and soften the size, will give much better results. 
Staggering the harnesses is the best possible treatment where a 
large number of harnesses or heavily sleyed warps are being used. 
A plaid back can be woven much more easily by adjusting the 
backing harnesses a trifle lower than the others. 

It can readily be seen that if there are six or eight ends in 
one dent, with the harnesses all level, and four or five of the har- 
nesses on which they are drawn are lifted at one time, those 
threads will be crowded in the dent, but if the harnesses are 
staggered the threads will be separated. If when weavmg a plain 
stripe there is a tendency for the threads to cling together, a 
possible remedy is to use a friction let-off in conjunction Avith an 
oscillating Avhip-roll, fixing the whip-roll so that the yarn is tight on 



WEAVING 199 



the center of movement of the harnesses. This prevents the cloth 
from becommg unduly slack at tmies, which is the most common 
cause of threads clinging together. When weaving fine or very 
thin cloths, there is often much trouble with the filling in , the 
cloth being dragged at the edges, making ragged lookhig cloth. 
A p^iece of wire ciriven in the top edge of the breast beam will 
often overcome this fault, but better yet is a roller mounted near 
the top of the breast beam over which the cloth may pass. 

If the fixer will use care in tying in warps, a great amount of 
yarn may be saved in a year. Tying in warps carelessly is a 
slovenly practice, and it takes longer to get them started, as well 
as causing an extra amount of work for the weaver because of 
some thi'eads, which are not drawn tight enough, being broken out 
on starting up. First tie in bunches sufficiently large to go under 
the temple on each side, and then complete the warp by tying in 
bunches occupying about two inches width in the reed. It will be 
noticed that the yarn often snarls behind the harnesses, and while 
it takes some time to draw out the snarls, a bad start-up is the 
result if it is neglected. When such a case is met with, draw 
back the warp until the snarls leave the harnesses, and the warp 
may then be tied in very readily. 

The above points are all small things, but they often save 
hours of labor, and mcrease the production as well, which is a very 
material consideration. 

CARE OF LOOMS. 

Before considering the general fixing of looms, it would be 
well to understand the following : A loom that is kept in good 
repair will cause very little trouble, and never serious faults. 
Looms give warning of coming danger, and the careful fixer will 
see to it that these warnings are heeded. A fixer who patches a 
job, very often has serious results from his neglect. A loom 
banging off, or a shuttle jumping or rattling in the box, is a sure 
sign that something is giving way ; the manner in which a shuttle 
is weaving, indicates, to the careful thinking fixer, the seat of the 
trouble, and he knows full well if the warning is unheeded, that 
probably a shuttle will fly out and hurt some one. If there are 
any of the parts that control the boxes wearing, the shuttle will 



200 WEAVING 



almost invariably show it, Ijecause it will be wearing either at the 
top or bottom. A reed over or miderfaced, or bent dents, will 
show themselves on the shuttle ; the back of the shuttle will be 
worn, or it will be wavy instead of having a smooth back. 

The term shuttle flying out, for jumping shuttles and flying 
shuttles, has been used, because it is a generally accepted term, 
but there is a difference between the two. A jumping shuttle is one 
that may skip over the cloth and go in the other box, or it might slip 
over the end of the loom to the floor, or possibly drop two or three 
feet from the loom, or the shuttle may jump up from the lay. Such 
shuttles rarely, if ever, hurt any one, but they are possible indica- 
tions of a serious defect which, if not attended to as soon as 
possible, will result in the shuttle flying a good many feet from 
the loom. By noting distinctly where the shuttle has fallen, 
and the distance it has gone, it is possible to locate the cause. 
The shuttle will not travel in the same direction if it meets any 
obstruction in its passage across the lay, as it will if it has shot 
clean from the box. A worn picker, picker-stick or loose spindle 
will throw a shuttle more clearly than any other cause, and these 
are the two causes that throw the shuttle with the full force of the 
picking motion ; and by a picker sprmging the picker spmdle 
often adds force to the shuttles. A shuttle that jumps through 
striking the feeler wires has met a sudden check, and it is impos- 
sible for such a shuttle to fly as fal", or in near the same direction 
as when thrown as before stated. 

When the boxes are below the race-plate, the shuttle must 
force itself out of the box, and has an upward tendency. Follow- 
ing out this line of reasoning, the effect can be clearly traced to 
the cause, and will save many hours of labor. 

GENERAL LOOM FIXING. 

In these chapters on general loom fixing it is the purpose to 
' give the causes of and remedies for the various faults met with in 
the majority of looms, whether with cone or bat-wing pick motions, 
single or multiple boxes. There may be odd cases missed in one 
chapter, but they will in most cases be found in another; for 
example, a loose picker will often cause a shuttle to fly out and it 



WEAVING 201 



will also cause a loom to bang off. A loose rocker-shaft will cause 
tlie loom to bang off and also cause it to be stopped tlirougli the 
filling stop motion. Some of tlie points have also been explained 
in the different chapters descriptive of the various parts and 
motions. Many of the little troubles common to some fixers may 
be avoided by following the ideas regarding different methods of 
fixing and the -reasons given for such. Special attention should 
be given to the. binders for they are probably the most frequent 
cause of trouble. Every fixer should have a straight edge, as it is 
useful for many purposes, particularly for levelling the boxes with 
the lay or reed. 

The various points will l)e explained in detail in different 
chapters. 

Banging Off. This term is applied to the action of the loom 
when it is stopped by the dagger strikhig the receiver, owing to 
the shuttle not being in place. Various causes are as follows : 

Most of the items from 38 to 51 inclusive apply especially to 
the ball and shoe-pick motion. 

Bangmg oif is the most common occurrence in the defective 
running of a loom, and it is due mainly to changes in the atmo 
sphere although many fixers lose sight of this. 

1. Supposing the room to be cold, it naturally acts on the 
loom, particularly the boxes, so that the shuttle does not run as freely 
as when it has become warm. The best method to follow is to wipe 
the boxes and the shuttle with dry waste when in the majority of 
cases the loom will run all right. It is possible that it may bang 
off once again, Imt on starting up it will generally be found that 
the use of a wrench is umiecessary ; and in case of such use chang- 
ing back again is usually required, when the room becomes warm. 
Occasionally it is well to apply a drop of oil to the binder, the 
merest trifle being sufficient. If the loom is damp wipe the boxes 
and shuttle thoroughly dry, apply a little oil, as above, to the swell, 
and start up again. Should it bang off again rub the face of the 
shuttle with some fine sandpaper. It may be noticed that when 
the box and shuttle are damp the front of the shuttle becomes 
black from the dampness and friction with the swell. Above 
points apply only when nothing is broken or worn out, and if it 
is found necessary afterwards, to make some alterations no loss 



202 



WEAVING 




Fig. 133. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Shuttle to Bang Off. 



WEAVING 203 



will have been incurred. On the contrary, it is a most beneficial 
lesson to learn to fix a loom as much as possible without a wrench, 
because many defects may be remedied in this way and with a 
great saving in supplies. 

2. "A loom banging off is sometimes caused by the cone 
being worn flat on one side. This may be very slight, but very 
little is sufficient to have this effect. The loom may run well for 
half an hour, or longer, but as soon as the point of the cam comes 
in contact with the flat place on the cone a soft pick is the result, 
and the shuttle not being driven far enough into the box the loom 
bangs off on the next pick. 

3. A partially broken lug-strap has the same effect, because 
the shuttle is not driven with sufficient force. In repairing the lug- 
strap, it is advisable to connect the new strap in the same position 
as the old. 

4. The picking-stand becoming worn, particularly the iron 
projection on it, which fits into tlie slot of the shoe and guides 
it, causes the stick to jump because of the shoe catching on it, 
and the result is either the loom bangs off or the shuttle is thrown 
out. 

5. A worn plug in the picker-stand twists the picker-stick, 
causing tlie shuttle to be thrown crookedly. This plug is easily 
replaced by a new one, and keeping the plug in good condition 
will save a considerable amount of work. 

6. When the pick point of the cam is worn so that the cone 
slides off out of contact with it, a weak piclv is caused and conse- 
quent banging off. 

7. If the lug-strap has too long a range the shuttle is 
picked across a little late with the same result. Occasionally, 
tliough the shuttle may be picked on time, the sweep or power 
stick is too short, causing the strap to become soft with a conse- 
quent loss of power. 

8. A cracked picker-stick is of course lacking in strength, 
and cannot drive the shuttle with sufficient speed to enter the 
opposite box, and the loom bangs off. 

9. Loosening of the shoe-bolt, which attaches the picker- 
stick to the shoe, causes either a soft or a hard jarring pick and tlie 
loom bangs off on the return. 



204 WEAVING 



10. The shuttle striking too forcibly in the box sometimes 
softens the picker so that there is not the firm throw behind it, 
and as it does not fully enter the opposite box the loom bangs 
off. While many fixers discredit this, they often replace the 
picker. 

11. When the collar, which holds the picker on the picker- 
stick becomes loose, the shuttle may either be thrown out or the 
loom bang off. The reason for this is that the picker sliding on 
the stick, reduces the power and keeps the back of the shuttle 
down, which, by causing it to press agamst the top of the shed on 
entering it, retards the passage through. In many instances the 
collar is loosened by the shuttle rising in the box as it nears the 
back end, and pushing the picker upwards. This may also occur 
when the picker-stick is too far into the box instead of being at 
the back end. 

12. One of two "conditions is generally responsible for 
rebounding shuttles ; either the pick is too strong, or the binder 
too loose. As a rebounding shuttle often results in a smash, it is 
well to use care in ascertaining the cause. By placing the small 
piece of tube between the extension bolt and the swell, an oppor- 
tunity is given to watch closely the operation of the loom, and a 
strong pick is readily perceived. Sometimes it is possible to feel 
the jar by placmg the hand on the lay cap, or if it is seen that the 
shuttle goes through the shed at the opposite side, clear of the 
yarn, the strength of the pick may be reduced a little. Do this 
by lengthening out the lug-strap, or by raising up the stirrup-strap 
about half an inch, the latter method being preferable. Another 
method of ascertaining the strength of the pick is to place the hand 
fiat on the top of the box, with the little finger just over the edge 
of the slot in which the picker-stick moves, known as the picker- 
race, thus covering the slot to the extent of almost four fingers. 
If the picker presses sufficiently hard against it to push the hand 
away, the stick has too strong a pick and too long a range, which 
may be remedied by letting out the lug-strap. Occasionally the 
pick-shaft drops slightly and allows the back end of the cone to 
rest on the cam, in which case a hard pick results. Raising it up 
again will ease the pick. When the pick is found to be all right, 
the box pressure must be increased, and this must be done with 



WEAVING 205 



allowances for future changes in speed and atmosphere. A very 
slight change is usually sufficient, and many times arranging the 
check-spring at the end of the box will obviate the difficulty. As 
fixmg for present conditions generally necessitates altering back 
again for the next change, the best method is to fix for average 
conditions, and thus save time and work. 

13. An early or late pick will cause the loom to bang off. 
The shuttle should commence to move when the crank is on the 
top center. When the picking motion is late, it may readily be 
noticed by watching the shuttle as it leaves the shed to enter the 
box. The shed closes upon it and the tendency is for the warp 
to become broken. Test the pick from both sides to see if both 
sides are a little late. If so, the probable cause is that the driving 
gears have slipped. Sometimes the key is a little narrower than 
the key-bed in the shaft, and it is only necessary to fit a new key, 
or the key may occasionally work loose, requiring only tightening. 

14. The late pick is also caused by slipping of the pick 
cams, particularly m the case where it is late on one side only. 
For this the only lasting remedy is to either sink the screw into 
the shaft or use a hardened cup-pointed screw which will bite the 
shaft. A common occurrence in tightening up set screws, especi- 
ally m pick-cams, is to twist off the heads. Instead of tightening 
to this extent, it is better to draw up until it tightens against the 
shaft, then withdraw a little, tightening up solid after this, when 
it will hold with as strong a grip as possible. 

15. When the shed is too early it closes on the shuttle, and 
when too late there is not sufficient space for the shuttle to enter, 
in either case the shuttle being retarded so that it does not fully 
enter the box. This condition is easily remedied, particularly so 
when the cams are on an auxiliary shaft, when by simply dis- 
engaging the carrier gear the cams can be set to the right time and 
gear replaced. Set the cams to have the shed full open with the 
crank on the top center. 

16. When the shed is too small the shuttle is retarded all 
the way across with similar results. With cams constructed on 
correct principles, and with treadles of proportionate length, this 
does not often occur ; but when it does, it will generally be found 
that the harnesses can be moved up and down for I- inch or | 



206 WEAVING 



inch, owing to the fact that the harness straps have not been 
equally attached. Frequently in remedying this defect the shed 
is made uneven. Taking up one hole m the strap does not 
always suffice, as they may not be equally spaced, and particular 
attention should be given to having them equal. Harnesses 
last longer when a little play is allowed in attachmg, but this 
should not be enough to alter materially the size of the shed. 

17. A loose rocker shaft allows the lay to spring up and 
interfere with the throw of the shuttle, which is sometimes 
thrown out by this means, as well as causing the loom to bang 
off. It is only necessary to tighten the bearing to remedy this 
defect. 

18. In connection with an adjustable swell, the lock-nut 
working loose allows the bolt to slip back, causing the swell 
to become loose. When the temper leaves the swell, it becomes 
loose and the loom bangs off. The bolt which retains the 
bmder in its frame shows the effect very quickly on becoming 
loose by ripping pieces out of the shuttle. 

19. Picker-sticks of poor quality will spring and bend, 
causing a soft pick, and a new stick is the only remedy. Usmg 
cheap picker-sticks is false econoiny, as good hickory sticks at 
slightly higher cost last many times longer. Picker-sticks have 
been known to run for five years, and on high-speeded looms 
which ran continuously. 

20. On some looms, collars are fitted on the end of the pick- 
cam shaft to prevent the shaft from slipping, and if a collar 
loosens, the shaft will move when the pick is taking place, allow- 
ing the cam to leave the cone, with the result of either a soft or a 
hard jarring pick. 

21. Key of driving gears too narrow. Covered under 13. 

22. Broken heel-straps allow the sticks to jump, and as 
the stick does not return to place more power is required behind 
the shuttle to drive it to the end of tlie box. 

23. A loose or weak spring has the same effect. 

24. When the reed is not level, with the back of tlie box it 
is known as an over-faced reed, when in front of its correct 
position, and an under-faced reed when behind. The sliuttle is 
caused to run crookedly in either case, and more power is 



WEAVING 207 



required to drive a sliuttle crookedly because being turned out of 
its course it strikes the front of tlie box. A few minutes spent 
in setting the reed level with the back of the box will save many 
hours of fixing, as well as adding greatly to the time the shuttle 
will last. If the reed is over-faced or under-faced it is easily 
detected through small pieces being chipped out of the shuttle. 
Single wires in the reed becoming bent forward will also cause 
the shuttle to run crookedly, and in time the shuttle wears them 
so that they become sharp and cut the yarn, especially the filling, 
when the lay beats up. This is one of the causes of stitching. 
The back of the shuttle becomes worn wavy by these dents. 

25. A tight lug-strap binds the picker-stick, thus causing 
the stick to jump when motion is imparted to it, and tlie shuttle 
is driven crookedly, with the usual result that it is stopped before 
fully entering the box. 

26. "When the warp is held under too much tension the 
shed is drawn together, leaving insufhcient space for the shuttle 
to pass through, and the loom bangs off, or it sometimes causes a 
smash. 

27. The bottom of the box at the entrance should be level 
with the race-plate. If it is too high, the shuttle strikes against 
it and is thrown against the top; while if too low, the shuttle 
strikes agamst the top of the box and there is too little space for 
it to enter. Either fault will cause the loom to bang off by pre- 
venting the shuttle from entering the box, and will also splinter 
the shuttles, making them so rough that they will constantly 
break out the warp. When the boxes are not level with the 
race-plate it is best to look for the cause, rather than immediately 
alter the position of the lifting rod or chain connections. Some- 
times only one box is out of position, and any alteration of the 
lifting rod or chain would affect all the boxes, making the 
trouble worse. If the collar on the lifting rod slips a trifle it 
allows the bottom of the chain-bolt to drop, and the bracket and 
the boxes are lifted too high. A chain pulley-stud becoming 
■worn allows the boxes to be too low. One or two links of the 
lifting chain being;' worn will cause one or two boxes to be too 
low without affecting the others. To remedy this a thin piece of 
wire may be attached to the under part of the link, thus lifting 



208 WEAVING 



the boxes slightly higher when that link passes over the pulley. 
Other causes of single boxes being out of position are : the lever 
which lifts that special box having slipped, and the chain twisting 
and riding on the edge of the pulley or dropping from the large 
to the small pulley. 

28. Yarn clinging in the shed hinders the shuttle from 
passing through freely. It may be the result of poor sizing, m- 
correct timing of the shed, or too small a shed, the remedies for 
which are manifest. 

29. In connection Avith fancy looms sometimes a harness 
drops when the shuttle is passing through the shed, in this way 
holding the shuttle and causing the loom to bang off. More will 
be said of this later. 

30. A worn face on the friction driving pulley causes the 
loom to bang off, owing to a slackening of the power, with a 
resultant soft pick. As the belt sometimes slips it is best to 
determine just where the fault lies. This may be tested as fol- 
lows : Remove the shuttle, draw the lay forward until the dagger 
is almost in the receiver, and then draw on the shipper-handle 
watching the pulley at the same time. If it stops, the friction is 
all right, and the fault is with the belt, which may be remedied 
by cleaning with a piece of card clothing and applying a little 
belt dressing. Dry slaked lime is one of the best remedies for a 
greasy friction, but a worn pulley must be replaced. Occasion- 
ally the driving pulley becomes just sufficiently loose on the shaft 
to give an uneven motion on starting up, especially when a 
heavy pattern is being woven, or one having changes from a light 
to a heavy lift. This looseness may be hardly perceptible, and 
yet be sufficient to cause much trouble. 

31. If the picker is worn it imparts an uneven motion to the 
shuttle, and also a soft pick, especially if worn too large around 
the picker-spindle. Should the hole be too deep in the picker, 
the shuttle is bound and the boxes will not change freely. A 
crooked or warped picker will not slide freely in the slot and the 
shuttle is not driven with enough force. 

32. Incorrect timing of the boxes has the effects described 
under 27. The boxes should be timed according to previous in- 
structions. 



WEAVING 209 



33. Looseness of the boxes in the slides not only causes a 
soft pick, but also is the cause of the shuttle becommg broken 
and flying out. When the motion is imparted to the picker- 
stick, instead of the shuttle alone receiving it, the boxes, being 
loose, are carried forward and the front end is thrown below the - 
race-plate, causing the shuttle to strike the end of the plate. 

34. If the boxes bind in the slides they will not move 
freely and the shuttle being crooked in the box cannot be thrown 
straight. 

35. Worn binder pin and pin-hole. 

36. Loose crank-arms. 

37. Occasionally one crank-arm will wear out faster than 
the other without being noticed, or new ones will be slightly un- 
equal and tlie throw of tlie lay will consequently be uneven. 
This causes the loom to bang off. Binding crank-arms have the 
same effect. 

38. Shoes slipping will cause the loom to bang off because 
of a soft pick, but if they are fixed according to instructions 
given they will rarely work loose. Unless the shoes are worn, 
tightening is sufficient to remedy the trouble. 

39. Worn shoes have the same effect as loose ones, but the 
only satisfactory remedy is to fit new ones. A worn shoe 
oftentunes Avears the shaft also, so that the shoe will not fit 
squarely upon it, and the shaft will also require repairing. 

40. Lack of oil causes the pick-ball to bind. This will spoil 
the ball and stud and the only satisfactory remedy is to replace it. 

41. It is impossible to obtain a good picking action if the 
pick shaft binds, and this is one of the causes of a loom requiring 
more power when picking from one side than the other. To test 
the shaft remove the sweep-stick and turn by hand, when any 
binding will become apparent and the bearings can be set to 
remedy. 

42. When the pick-ball and stud become worn, the best 
remedy is to replace them with new ones. Fit the stud in the 
slot of the extension as snugly as possible, with the collar flat 
agamst the casting. Lack of attention to this small detail means 
constant fixing and tightening of the stud, which otherwise 
would not be required. 



210 WEAVING 



43. A worn sweep-stick allows too much play to the lug 
strap and stick, with a consequent loss of power. The sweep- 
stick should be riveted at the end to strengthen it. Set the 
sweep-stick and lug-strap m a direct line from the picking-stick 
to the picking-arm when the crank shaft is just behind the top 
center, as it is at this time that the hardest pull comes on the 
pick motion. Failure to set the sweep-stick in this manner 
causes the studs in the picking arms to become loose, or if the 
stud is cast with the arm, tends to break it off, or makes the hole 
in the sweep-stick longer. It is also a cause of the picking-arm 
breaking because of being twisted. The sweep-stick and lug- 
strap should be set as nearly level as possible with the stirrup- 
strap on the outside of the stick. A leather or rawhide washer 
should be placed between the split pin m the picking-arm stud 
and the sweep-stick. Old pickers may be cut up for this pur- 
pose. Sometimes a sweep-stick is too long and it comes in 
contact with the dog as the picking-stick is drawn in. This will 
not only cause the loom to bang "off, but will sometimes throw 
the shuttle. For looms with from 28 inches to 42 inches reed 
space, a sweep-stick of 6 inches to 7 inches will be found to give 
good results. 

44. On narrow looms the picking-arm is changeable, bemg 
placed m a bracket fixed to the pick-shaft. When these get 
loose the result is either a soft pick or a hard jarring pick, accord- 
ing to the way they slip. An iron wedge is usually placed 
between the stick and set screw to prevent undue wearing. 

45. When the pick-shaft is loose, it is forced away from 
the ball and there is a loss of power. Before fixing the picking- 
arm to the shaft it should be examined, and any rough places 
filed smooth. It does not pay to tighten up the arm unless it 
fits squarely on the shaft, as otherwise it soon becomes loose and 
spoils the shaft. 

46. Loose driving pulley. 

47. Different weights and sizes of shuttles cannot be used 
on a loom at the same tune, as the power to drive them would 
have to vary proportionately. 

. 48. Shuttles worn round on the back and bottom are 



WEAVING ^11 



equally bad, as they cannot be driven straight, and often turn 
over in crossing the lay. 

49. Worn wood pulley. 

50. If the binder pin and hole is worn, there will be an 
uneven pressure on the shuttle, depending upon how the shuttle 
strikes the binder. 

Explanation of Fig. 133 on Page 202. 
A and B. Worn picking cones. 

C. Worn picking ball, 

D. Worn knob or pick shaft point. 

E. F, and G. Worn pick points. 
H. Worn bearing for bottom shaft. 
I. Worn shoe. 

J. Worn power-stick. 
Shuttle Flying Out. A number of the causes of the loom 
banging off are also the cause of the shuttle fiymg out, so that in 
this section when the same cause occurs, reference to those points 
will be made by number and the explanation can be found in the 
previous chapter. 

4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27, 
28, 29, 32, 33, 34, 48. 

50. Also, worn picking sLick. 

51. Worn shuttle. 

52. Loose top shed. 

53. Bottom shed too high off the race-plate. 

54. Worn spindle-stud. 

55. Yarn clinging together in the shed. 

56. Race-plate loose. 

57. Feelers too low in the shed. 

58. Shuttle spindle-pin working through the back of the shuttle. 

59. Harness spring broken or weak, not pulling the harness 

low enough for the yarn to be on the race-plate. 

60. Loose crank-arras. 

Reed over and under faced, that is, in some way the reed has 
become bent so that it is forward from the level of the back of the 
box. This causes the shuttle to strike against that part, be it ever 
so little, and the nose of the shuttle is turned out from the reed. 
The way to straighten this is to have a flat piece of iron held 



212 WEAVING 



against the back of the reed, and straighten the end of the reed 
with a flat-faced hammer, also assist the reed by softening the 
pitch that is around the casing of the reed, and in this manner they 
can often be returned to a straight jjosition, but if the whole reed 
is out of square, then it would have to be trued up, and sometimes 
this can be done by altering the lay cap. If the reed being over 
faced does not throw the shuttle out, it has a tendency to spoil the 
shuttle by splintering it at the back where it first comes in contact 
with the reed, and this often breaks the yarn out, because when 
the weaver is placing the sliuttle in the box it is apt to be turned 
a little causmg the splintered portion to rub against the yarn. A 
loose picker will cause the shuttle to fly out, because the picker 
slides on the stick to any position the shuttle forces it, and when 
the stick is at the end of the stroke, instead of the shuttle being 
slightly elevated at the back, it is down on the race-plate, and the 
top of the hole of the picker strikes the tip of the shuttle, and the 
nose of the shuttle is raised up, consequently it will usually fly out. 

Another cause is the shed openmg too late and there is not 
sufficient space for the shuttle to enter it, the result is either the 
shuttle is thrown out on the first pick, or it is retarded so much 
that it does not go far enough in the box at the opposite side, but 
still sufficiently to raise up the dagger, and on the next pick the 
picker strikes the shuttle when the pick is at its quickest time, and 
m this way the shuttle is often thrown out. The shed closing too 
soon Avill also have the same effect as too early a shed. 

When that portion of the pickmg-stick is worn which comes 
in contact with the picker, it causes a jump to the picker and con- 
sequently jumps the shuttle. It is best to round off the corners of 
the worn place, or replace with a new stick. Worn shuttle means 
a shuttle that is round on the back and bottom, such a shuttle 
will not hug the reed, with the result that it often flies out. If 
the bottom shed is too high off the race-plate, the shuttle is thrown 
up as it leaves the box ; a sunilar result occurs from cause 59. A 
worn spindle stud is the general cause of persons being injured by 
shuttles flyilrg out. When the stud is worn and the picking-stick 
works forward, the stud has a tendency to work out from the box, 
which means that the picker will draw the back end of the shuttle 
to the back of the box, forcmg out the front end of the shuttle ; 



WEAVING 



213 




Fig. 134, Worn Parts of Loom Causing Shuttle to Fly Out. 



214 WEAVING 



the consequence is, instead of tlie shuttle being controlled in a 
measure, it is aAvay from its support and will fly out. A common 
practice is to pack the worn stud with leather. It is dangerous to 
fix because the leather has a tendency to become loose after a. few 
picks have been run. Steel cups can be purchased from the loom 
makers for the purpose of filling in the hole of the worn stud. 

Yarn clinging in the shed may be the result of poor sizing, 
wrong timmg of the shed, or too small a shed. Sometunes the 
race-plate becomes loose in the center, also at the sides, but more 
often the former, and in nineteen out of every twenty cases the 
fault is not seen until ahnost everythuig else has been done to fix 
the fault. Tliis is owing to the yarn covering the race-plate. 
Such a fault will show itself on the shuttle, for the latter will be 
chipped on the top owing to striking the top of the boxes. If the 
fiUmg motion feelers are low in the shed, they mterfere with the 
passmg of the shuttle acrosc the lay. Sometimes the back of 
the shuttle will be so much worn that the spindle-pin protrudes 
and catches the reed. If a harness spring is broken or weak, it 
will not pull down the harness, so that the yarn is up off the race- 
plate. This causes the shuttle to run crooked. If the crank-arms 
are loose, there is an uneven motion to the lay, which causes the 
shuttle to fly out generally as the crank is passing over the top 
center. 

Explanation of Fig. 134 on Page 213. 

A and B. Worn shuttles caused by under or over-faced reed. 

C. Worn shuttle caused by boxes being too high or too low. 

D. Worn picker. 

E. Worn projection on picking stand. 

Uneven Cloth; meaning shady cloth and cloth with thick and 
thhi places. 

Late or early shed. 

Small shed.' 

Loose rocker shaft bearing. 

Odd crank-arms. 

Loose crank-arms. 

Loose reed. 

Uneven shed. 

Uneven filling. 



WEAVING 215 



Gudgeons or beam spikes bent. 

Broken beam flanges. 

Worn wbip-roll. 

Damp friction. 

Take-up motion out of order. 

Tin or sand roller bearing worn. 

Loose perforated tin or tin roller. 

Too deep in gear with beam head. 

Upright shaft binding. 

Worn stud on oscillating lever. 

Rough teeth on beam head. V Gear Let off.' 

Pawl and spring worn. 

Spring worn in boss of upright lever. 

Oily friction strap. 

Worn ratchet. 

Rope twisted around the beam head. 

Cloth under friction band in a grimy condition. 

Friction lever resting on the band or beam head. 

Crooked beam head so that it touches the whip-roll when the 
crooked portion comes round. 

Too much pull on the friction cloth roller will strain the cloth, 
and occasionally causes two teeth to be taken up on the take- 
up motion. 

Uneven setting of the harness. 

A number of the above causes suggest the remedy. 

Uneven Cloth. This is one of the hardest things to contend 
vt^ith especially in a weave room where the humidity is not under 
control. The friction let-off naturally feels the effect of the 
dampness more than the gear let-off, although in some cases the 
strap that checks somewhat the let-off of the gear is influenced by 
dampness. The friction let-off is most certamly the best, take it 
as a whole, that is, the rope wrapped around the beam head, or it 
may be a chain, an iron band or raw hide. These most certainly 
give the best results if attended to, but if allowed to go as they 
please, as the common term is, they are the worst form of let-off. 
If the rope has become sticky, a little powdered black lead will 
soon remedy this defect. French chalk is often used, and with 
good results, but this is more liable than graphite to cake and 
become sticky with change of atmosphere or if some oil is acciden- 



216 



WEAVING 



tally dropped on the beam head. There are some fixers who have 
used oil on the beam head, clamimg that it allowed the rope to 
slip more freely, but the very same fixers have been seen to take 
great pains in wiping off the oil under other circumstances. It 
sometmies happens that uneven cloth is caused by tlie spike or 
gudgeon in the beam having been sprung ; this is caused by bang- 
ing the beam on the floor, and as the yarn is drawn off, the uneven 
turn of the beam causes unequal let-off of the yarn. 

The take-up motion is often the cause of uneven cloth. The 




Fig. 135. Worn Parts of Loom Causing Uneven Cloth. 



majority of take-up motions that are on the two pick prmciple, 
that is, receiving motion from the pick cam shaft, are constructed 
so that with a little change they can be made to take up two teeth 
at a time. Under this construction, it is natural then that the 
ratchet gear has a little play more than what is necessary to take 
up one tooth, because it is owmg to the loss of a portion of a tooth 
by the check-pawl, and a portion also by the take-up lever that the 
motion only takes up one tooth. The converging of these pomts 
and the usmg of the loss of space travelled by the take-up lever and 



WEAVING 217 



the check-pawl, enables the motion to take up two teeth. If the 
ratchet gear does not swmg a little and work perfectly free, then one 
can expect an uneven cloth, because instead of swinging back a lit- 
tle to meet the check-pawl, the gear stays in the position to which 
it is drawn by the take-up lever, and tliis will occasionally cause 
two teeth to be taken up. Uneven spun yarn makes a bad looking 
cloth, and this is sometimes called a cockly cloth. The uneven 
settmg of the harness will cause uneven cloth, that is, the harness 
not lifting equally at both sides, or an uneven shed, one lifting 
higher than the other. Wlien using a gear let-off, a fixer cannot 
be too careful at the first starting up of the warp to see that all is 
straight, and that the gear which is in contact with the beam head 
is not too deep in gear. This is one of the most common causes of 
complamt, because the teeth around the beam head are not always 
as clean as they might be. Small chips of iron are on the mner 
edge of the teeth, and if the driving gear is too deep when the 
beam has been turned to where the rough teeth are, the warp will 
jump, and, in this way cause these places. 

Sometimes the gear is m right pitch with the beam head, and 
yet thin places are caused ; the possibility is that the beam spike 
is sprung causing an uneA''en contact with the drivmg gear. • If the 
stud on which the rod is placed is worn, uneven cloth will be the 
result, and sometmies the spring that keeps the pawl m contact 
with the ratchet gear has lost its strength, and occasionally the 
pawl will sUp over the teeth of the ratchet instead of engaging in 
them. This causes an uneven let-off. This Kttle system of look- 
mg before one uses a wrench comes m handy, for by the moving 
of the small collar, a great difference in the let-off will be the result. 
On a let-off motion, a spring is often placed m contact with the 
upright lever. This assists in bringing back the lever and at the 
same tune the pawl; if the spring should slip, uneven cloth is 
sometunes caused, but not often, as it cannot be called a vital 
point in the let-off motion. The pawl will sometimes miss turn- 
ing the ratchet gear owing to the pawl being worn, and this point 
is often overlooked, the same as the sprmg. Uneven cloth is often 
caused by the arm that supports the whip-roll being worn, and if 
there is much vibration of the whip-roll, this has a tendency to 
raise a little out of the place that is worn, and if the ends of the 



218 WEAVING 



whip-roll are worn unevenly so that if the roll moves around a 
little, it is raised higher up, consequently uneven cloth will be the 
result. A round whip-roll is the best if the hearings are kept 
clean and well oiled ; it moves around with the yarn as it is drawn 
off the beam and there is less possibility of the yarn wearing 
grooves in the roll, as it often does m what is termed a flat whip- 
roll, explained more fully under the head of " Construction of a 
loom.'" 

When the rocker shaft bearing is loose, there is an uneven 
movement to lay when beating up. If the crank-arm is loose, or 
one is slightly longer than the other, the reed does not beat up 
evenly ; a loose reed gives the same result. If a beam flange is 
broken, when the heavier side is passing down, it goes down more 
quickly than when the broken side is passing down, especially is 
this so when fancy cloths are being woven, and it is not uncom- 
mon to add a weight to the broken side to balance the beam. 
When the bearing for the sand roller is worn, the roller jumps, 
causing cloudy cloth. Loose perforated tin will sometmies over- 
lap, causing a thin place in the cloth. Occasionally the guide 
roller will come loose and turn, and if it has not been set straight, 
uneven cloth will be the result. If the cloth under the friction 
band is allowed to remain on too long, it becomes sticky, and 
allows the beam to let off in jumps. Occasionally when attaching 
the friction, the knot in the cloth is allowed to remain under the 
friction band and this will cause very uneven let-off. If the fric- 
tion lever is allowed to rest on the band or beam head, it will pre- 
vent the proper letting off of the warp. 

■ Sometimes the weight will touch the floor, or the weight from 
a top beam touches the loAver beam. If the beam head is crooked, 
when it turns round it will touch the whip-roll. If there is too 
much pull on the friction cloth roller the cloth will be strained, 
and it will also occasionally cause two teeth to be taken up on the 
ratchet gear. If the harnesses are not set level, shady dyed cloth 
will almost certainly be the result, because the sheds being lower 
on that side the cloth is a trifle thicker, the consequence is that 
there is a difference in the absorption of the dye stuff. The cen- 
ter harness connection on the Knowles Loom was designed to over- 
coiiie this. If one edge of the cloth is slack through the fault of 



WEAVING 219 



tlie temple, shady piece dyed cloth will result. Sometimes there 
are distinct cracks in the cloth, and in nine cases out of every ten, 
they are caused by slack yarn, especially is this so with cam work 
of four or more harnesses. Notice the cloth that is woven and one 
will see the defects occur almost regularly. Then watch the loom, 
and the probable cause will be the yarn is slack on one certain har- 
ness, and when the filling is beaten up the slack yarn forms ui a 
rub which prevents the close beating up of the filling, raising that 
harness up a little to tighten the yarn. 

Explanation of Fig. 135 on Page 216. 

A. Worn link. 

B. Worn treadle-pin. 

C. Worn treadle-phxg. 

D. Worn treadle-bowl. 

E. Worn connecting rod of let-off motion. 



EXAMINATION PAPER 



WEAVING. 

PART 11. 



Instruction to the Student. Place your name and full address at the 
head of the paper. Use any cheap, light paper like the sample already sent 
you, of a size about 7 by 9 inches. Study the Instruction Paper thoroughly 
before attempting to answer the Examination, and then answer in your own 
words. 



1. What is the purpose of the fillmg stop motion? 

2. Describe the alternate filling stop motion. 

3. Of what value is the protection motion on a plain loom? 
Describe how this motion works. How would you set the dagger 
m relation to the receiver? 

4. Describe fully the Crompton Gingham box motion. 

5. What particular points must be attended to, when fitting 
a new set of boxes to the loom ? 

6. Describe what would occur from a worn receiving plate 
on the protection motion. How would this occur? 

7. Describe the two distinct shapes of forks on the alternate 
filling stop motion. Has one any advantage over the other, if so, 
how ? 

8. Of what value is the lock-knife on the Knowles Ging- 
ham box motion ? Give the timing of the lock-knife. 

9. What is liable to occur from a worn picker and picking- 
stick ? Describe fully. 

10. Describe the center filling stop motion. 

11. What is liable to occur from the following on the pro- 
tection motion : worn dagger point, dagger too long, dagger too 
short? Describe how the faults occur. 

12. Describe what faults occur froni' the boxes bmding or 
being too loose in the slides. 



224 WEAVING 



13. If the small segment gear shaft was bent or sprung, 
what would take place ? Describe how this would occur. Cromp- 
ton motion. 

14. Give the timing of the alternate filling stop motion 
cam. Is there any reason why this cam should not be on the 
opposite time ? What is the reason, if any ? 

15. How would you set the feeler wires to obtain the best 
results ? , A full answer required. 

16. Suppose the spring check finger on the Crompton motion 
did not rest squarely on the check studs connected to the disc, 
what would result ? Tell how this occurs. 

17. How would you set the picker m relation to the guide 
plates ? Why ? 

18. Give the timmg of the center fiUmg stop motion. 

19. Describe how you would set the boxes level with the 
race-plate, and how the leverage is adjusted on the Crompton box 
motion. 

20. Does it require more power to drive the shuttle when 
the boxes are loose in the slides, than when they are fitted as they 
ought to be ? If so, how ? 

21. Describe the grasshopper motion. Crompton Loom. 

22. If the loom was stopped by the filling stop motion with- 
out the fiUmg breakmg, what would occur ? How ? 

23. How should the picker spindle be set in relation to the 
boxes ? What is liable to occur from the wrong settmg or a worii 
spmdle stud? How? 

24. What is the value of the box protection motion ? 
Describe how faults occur if this fails to work. Crompton 
motion. 

25. What is the value of the multiplier ? Describe how it 
works m relation to the box cham. Crompton or Knowles. 

26. Is it better to elevate the back end of the boxes or not? 
In either case give reasons for answer. 

27. Describe the Knowles Gingham box motion. 

28. What points determine the practical value of a box 
motion ? 



WEAVING 225 



29. When building box chains, what particular points need 
consideration ? 

30. After setting the first box level with the race-plate, 
how would you get the right leverage on the second box if it 
was below or above the race-plate when raised? How obtam 
the right leverage on the third and fourth boxes ? Knowles 
motion. 

31. What vital point needs consideration in the running of 
the picking-stick with the picker ? Why ? 

32. Make out the box chain and multiplier for the following 
pattern, arranging the shuttles in the boxes to the best advantage. 
This is a four and one box loom : 60 blue, 10 white, 2 red, 
2 white, 2 red, 2 white, 2 red, 10 white, 8 blue, 8 white, 8 blue, 
8 white, 8 blue, 10 white. 

33. Make out the box and multiplymg chain for the follow- 
ing pattern ; pick and pick loom, also show method of arrangmg 
shuttles in the boxes. 30 blue, 4 red, 20 blue, 4 red, 30 blue, 
8 brown, 4 black, 8 brown, 4 black, 8 brown, 4 black, 8 brown, 
4 gold silk, 16 black. 

34. Give at least ten causes for loom banging off. 

35. What is the cause and remedy for temple marks ? 
Explaui fully. 

36. Would the same kind of burr temple be used on all 
. classes of fabrics ? Give full reasons for your answer. 

37. Explain fully the advantage gamed from staggermg 
the harness. 

38. What would you do to help a soft sized warp to weave ? 

39. Suppose the picks of filling are bemg laid in the cloth 
somewhat on an angle, what would you consider the cause .? 

40. Is it possible to run different weights of shuttles in the 
same loom, especially in a four and one box loom ? Why ? 

41. What effect v/ould a heavily built loom and lay have on 
a fine piece of cloth, especially if the eccentricity of the lay was 
very pronounced ? How ? 

42. How would you treat an extra sized warp to get it to 
weave ? Why ? 



226 WEAVING 



48. Supposing that after the start up iii the mornmg you 
found a number of looms banguig off caused by excessive moisture 
in the room, what method would you pursue to overcome the 
faults? Why? 

44. What effect would the following have on the cloth: 
rusty temple ring spindle, waste in the temple rings, crooked 
temj)le ? 

45. Make out the chain plan for the following pattern: 
3 picks brown and white D. T. yarn, 3 picks white, 3 picks D. T. 
yarn, 3 picks white, 2 picks printed yarn, 3 picks white, 3 picks 
D. T. yarn, 3 picks white yarn, 3 picks D. T. yarn, 2 picks printed 
yarn, 2 picks light blue, 3 picks white, 2 picks light blue, 1 pick 
fancy, 2 picks blue, 3 picks white, 3 picks D. T., 3 picks white, 
3 picks D. T., 1 pick fancy. 

46. Supposing four colors of filling were being used in a 
loom, and one was a soft spun filling, which box would you place 
that filling into ? Why ? 



After completing the work, add and sign the following statement: 

I hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own. 

(Signed) 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



018 374 442 2 f 



